Rivers of Chile » chile

Rio Caunehue

Valentin — Fri, 11 Dec 2009 12:45:22 +0000

A short burst of paddling in the Futrono Zone. Best during highwater springtime run off or after periods of sustained rain.

Caunehue whitewater

This short class IV+ stretch is on the northern shore of Lago Ranco just east of the town of Futrono in Chile’s recently created Region XIV aptly called Region de Los Rios.

Slide drop

To reach the put in while traveling south on Ruta 5 exit 17 KM south of Los Lagos and follow a good paved road 44 km to pleasant town of Futrono. Continue east around the northern shore of the lake to the first major bridge which is over the Caunehue. This stretch of river is found while on the way to the Florin, the Curringue or the Saltos De Nilahue.

Caunehue Canyon

A slide will be visible upstream from the bridge and this is the put-in. Leave your car near the bridge and hike upstream on river left. Run the first slide on the left to avoid a nasty undercut and siphon on the right side of slide.

Directly after the slide you enter the beautiful canyon seen looking downstream from the bridge. Make sure you get a good scout from the bridge beforehand.
It’s a massive ramp from the right to the left with a nasty undercut on the right and big hole on the left, take speed and follow the main line of water!!!

After this the river goes left and you can not scout it but it is a class II rapid!!!!

The next 2 class IV+ rapids you can scout it from the left. Start the first one on the middle left, go right of the big rock in the middle, boof right and stay middle left. Run the second rapid far left then you will have 2 more class III rapids.

The takeout is a rocky beach on river left where you can see a house on the hill. Follow a trail to the house then back to the bridge to collect you car.

Don’t forget, when you run the first slide, you are committed to run the remainder of the canyon.

In a fairly high water year in early December 2009 we ran the 1 km stretch of river with approximately 900 CFS (30 cumecs)

Fotos by Jakub Šedivý

Rio Trafanpulli

kurt casey — Wed, 02 Dec 2009 15:29:16 +0000

A rumbling steep creek coming off the permanent snowfields of Nevados de Solipulli is the Rio Trafanpulli. In local Mapadungo language the meaning is “junction of the valleys”.

French kayaker Valentin Grollemund

I first started looking at this creek in 1995 but it was not until 2009 that I was able to get back to run it. Equipped with a good topo map, several days of rain, a good group and a newly constructed access road everything fell into place to add another class 4-5 steep creek to the countless options in the Pucon area.

In the canyon of the Trafanpulli

The river is a bit of a geological mystery as it comes within 400 meters of entering Lago Caburgua but then swings northwest and continues another 12 KM before entering Lago Colico. At very high flows some water spills into a flood channel and indeed enters Lago Carburgua. This unique feature means that one river can split and feed two distinct drainages that each runs its parallel course before once again joining each other 80 km downstream where the Allipen joins the Tolten.

To get to the river from Pucon there are two options. Both options take more than two hours although neither option is more than 140 KM. Option 1 is go west to Villarrica and cross over Tolten bridge on main road towards Temuco. Immediately turn right and follow newly constructed road to Pedregozo. From there continue north either on the Interlagos road or the road towards Los Laureles. At a T junction turn right towards Lago Colico and follow its north shore to Puerto Trafanpulli. Continue east and you will begin passing over bridges over the Rio Trfanpulli. Each has a sign with its own bridge number.

The other option is leave Pucon and go east to Curarrehue then north up the Machin valley thru Reigolil and westward down to the Trafanpulli.

Elevations of bridges 2-5 are as follows along with distance between them.

Bridge 2 is at 359 meters and it is 3 km to bridge 3 at 393 meters elevation. It is then 5 km to bridge 4 at 424 meters elevation and another 6.9 km to bridge # 5 at 481 meters elevation. Whitewater is minimal on the bridge to bridge sections but logistics are simple. For the real whitewater us bridge 5 as takeout and proceed east on main road for about 3 km. There will be a turn off to the left with a sign “Al Cercon”. Most likely this gate will be locked and you will need to park the vehicle, climb over the fence and begin hiking with all your gear. After hiking for 3 km (40 minutes) and climbing 200 vertical meters you will come to gravel road forking off to the left with a sign saying “El Zapato”. Follow this road for approximately ½ km as it descends down to a bridge over the river.

This section of river is 4 km down to bridge number 5. The put in is at around 685 meters. We chose to get off the river about 1 km prior to bridge # 5 where we could see the road and from there walked back to get our vehicle 1 KM upstream. The 3 km stretch we ran dropped 185 meters for average gradient of 62 MPK or 310 FPM. We had a estimated flow of 250 CFS which was scratchy and a bit disconcerting at the beginning but as the river quickly channelized in a mature bedrock canyon, the flow proved to be acceptable. Another 100 CFS would be optimal but anything over 500 CFS would be too high. There were 2 short portages that may have been runnable with a little extra juice otherwise the drops were continuous and clean with the largest being a 5 meter falls. For the intrepid boat hiker the maps indicate an additional 2 km stretch upstream with average gradient of 50 mpk but one 300 meter section where river drops 50 meters that must be peppered with waterfalls.

I have seen the river in late January and it had the same flow as when we did it on a rainy spring day on December 1st. For that reason I would guess the run is boatable thru the summer months as the main source of water is snowmelt and groundwater.

Note: Take food and beer and fill your vehicles tank as the nearest stores are at least an hour away.

Other nearby rivers include Blanco de Caburgua, Solipulli, and Truful Truful

Topo maps are very useful and 1:50,000 are available from the IGM Instituto Geographica Militar. The river spills onto two maps with titles being Nevados De Caburgua G-06 and Lago Caburgua 3900-7145

Río Bío-Bío (El Nacimiento)

kurt casey — Wed, 25 Nov 2009 15:38:00 +0000

The famed Bío-Bío, Chile’s second longest river, originates in the heart of Mapuche-Pehuenche territory. The nacimiento, or birthplace of the river, is primeval and unforgettable. Araucarias, one of the Earth’s three oldest surviving tree species, stand sentinel along a shore framed by distant peaks straddling the border between Chile and Argentina.

Float this headwater run when the river is swollen from snowmelt. Below the confluence with the Río Rucanuco, the Bío-Bío opens up to broad vistas of the surrounding countryside. For the next 50-60 km, cattle graze in the adjacent fields while you float through occasional class II rapids. Approximately 10 km upstream from Lonquimay, a surprise series of angled ledge drops require precise maneuvering in a raft.

To find the headwater lakes, drive east from Victoria, 614 km south of Santiago, to Lonquimay. From Lonquimay, drive southeast approximately 75 km toward Laguna de Gualletué (Mapuche for “land where the oak trees grow”) and the Pehuenche town of Icalma. An alternate route to Icalma leads east from Temuco through Cunco and Melipeuco. Put in on Laguna de Icalma (Mapuche for “clean as a mirror”) out of which the Río Rucanuco flows, or turn off just before the lake at a sign pointing towards Laguna de Gualletué and the Bío-Bío. Numerous dirt tracks and a lack of signs can lead to confusion. Persistence will pay off by staying on the main two-wheel track and continuing north toward the distant hills approximately 10 km from the turnoff. The elevation at put in is 1145 meters.

The takeout is reached by returning to Lonquimay and driving north 20 km to the put-in at Balsadero Caracoles. This 100 KM class II•III run is best in spring or early summer but I have seen it in early February and it still looked boatable. Flows range from 1000 to 5000 CFS and average gradient is 4 mpk or 20 FPM making it suitable for multi-day family raft trip. The fishing is very good so bring a rod.

Nearby rivers include Llanquen and the Cautin. A gate on a private road prevents access from the lower Bio Bio and other tribuataries such as Queuco, Lomin, Ralco and Chalquivin.

Topo maps titled • Laguna de Icalma, Liucura, Laguna Marinanqui, Lonquimay

Río Bío-Bío (Lower)

kurt casey — Wed, 25 Nov 2009 15:27:58 +0000

Although the upper canyons now lay dormant under man made reservoirs, the lowest section of the Bío-Bío still offers intermittent whitewater, easy access, and pleasant scenery and a reminder of what was lost upstream. Its class II-III rapids will challenge, terrify, and delight the novice. During the mellow interludes, you will have plenty of time to gaze off into the distance at Cerro La Pepa (1853 m) and Volcán Calláqui (3050 m).

Narrow stretch of river visible from the road

The Bío-Bío valley was the southern terminus of the Spanish colonial empire. Excluding a few coastal settlements, the conquistadors never subdued the inland Mapuches, who held fast for nearly 300 years by fiercely defended their homeland. They were one of the few indigenous tribes in the Americas to withstand the Spanish onslaught, maintaining a traditional lifestyle long after Chilean independence in 1821.

Two of the six proposed dam sites in the Bío-Bío watershed, Huequecura and Aguas Blancas, are situated along this section of the river. If built, these dams would flood most of the run. Plans for the lowest hydroelectric site, Quitramen, include a four-dam complex that would inundate the floodplain between Santa Barbara and the Pan American Highway.

From Los Angeles, 517 km south of Santiago, drive 3 km south on the Pan American Highway, then turn east on the paved road to Santa Barbara. Continue upstream 42 km to the put-in at the confluence with the Río Queuco at elevation 330 meters. Take out at Puente Quilaco, 1 km upstream from Santa Barbara elevation 145 meters. To decrease the amount of flatwater, take out 16 km upstream from Santa Barbara immediately after passing under a concrete arch spanning the narrow canyon. You will have a short, strenuous climb to reach the highway.

This 40 km stretch is best run in high water spring runoff but is adequate for year round paddling. With average gradient of 5 mkm or 26 FPM the river provides plenty of puch and play oppourtunites with springtime flows exceeding 10,000 CFS.

Topo maps of region Laguna de la Laja • Loncopangue, Rucalhue

Rio Renegado

kurt casey — Tue, 24 Nov 2009 12:59:11 +0000

The Renegado is a seldom run creek that plummets off of Volcan Chillan (3186 meters). It is small so usually gone by beginning of December but might come up in summer months after several days of heavy rain.

Mellow takeout on the Renegado

The normal stretch is a class 4, 8 km section with ideal flows of 300 to 700 CFS. Most everything is boat scoutable but an occasional scout or portage may be required due to logs or mini box canyons.

Fields Marshall Rio Renegado

To reach the takeout follow the main road from city of Chillan on Ruta 5 eastwards towards the ski center and hotsprings of Volcan Chillan. The takeout bridge is at Puente Renegado in town of Los Lleques elevation 700 meters. The adjacent Restuarant Renegado provides good cheap hot food and cold beer at the takeout.

To reach the put in continue 8 KM upstream and turn left 300 meters before reaching the entrance to Cueva Los Pincherias. There is a wooden bridge over the river here elevation at 975 meters.

The river drops 275 meters in 8 km or average of 34.5 MPK or 175 FPM. The consistent gradient and mature volcanic streambed makes for good whitewater the whole trip. the rapids towards the end are slightly more difficult than anything in first 6 km.

Hairboaters and waterfall junkies take note: Below the takeout bridge there remains an as yet unrun 2.5 KM stretch down to the Diguillin river at elevation 425 meters with average gradient of 110 mpk or whopping 550 FPM. Puente Blanco lies halfway down this radical stretch providing for good bailout and/or scouting options. We have walked from Puente Blanco on a good trail down to the Diguillin where the river makes it’s boldest statement with first a 5 meter falls into a moving pool followed by final 35 meter plunge into the Diguillin river.

Lower stretch of Renegado viewed from Puente Blanco

35 meter Renegado Falls

While running the Renegado or nearby Diguillin a cool place to stay is the boater friendly Mission Impossible Lodge. the owner is a French kayaker named Bertrand Deschamps. Lodge is located about 15 km up stream of takeout in the Valle Shangri-La. Apart from excellent food the lodge features an indoor climbing wall and skateboard ramp, WIFI internet, 3 hot tubs, views of the Chillan volcano, and a cool form of zipline unique to Chile. Info at www.milodge.com or bertrand@misnowchile.com

Topo map of region is 1:50,000 scale titled Recinto 3645-7130

Other nearby rivers include Diguilin, Rio Chillan, Ñuble, Los Sauces, Laja, Perquilaquen

Rio Dillo

kurt casey — Mon, 23 Nov 2009 17:12:01 +0000

To reach the put-in from Curracautín go west on the paved road towards Victoria and you will cross Puente Dillo in 4-1/2 kilometers (first you will pass over Puente Amantible). After crossing the bridge immediately turn right and drive up a private road until you reach a locked gate. We were given permission from landowner to leave our vehicle and access the river through a grassy trail. Because the banks are steep, slippery and nearly vertical there are few access points to the river. The elevation at this point is 500 meters and on November 19 first descent we had an estimated flow of 600 CFS. We were told the river has year round flow.

Dillo whitewater

The land owner’s name and phone number is Raul Coulon Lopez 89224878

To reach takeout from Puente Dillo continue west on paved road but after only 100 meters go straight onto the gravel road and follow it 8 km to Rari Ruca bridge on the Cautín at 420 meters elevation. There is a fluvial gauge on the north side of bridge. This 8 km stretch of class 3 and 4 whitewater drops 80 meters for average drop of 10 mkm or 50 FPM. After 2 km on the Dillo it joins with Rio Blanco doubling the flow then after another 4 km joins with Cautín. The takeout is 2 km downstream at Puente Rari Ruca. There is a fluvial gauge on the north west side of the bridge and on our mid November first descent it registered 7 (possibly .7 as it was hard to read).

A for sure radical class 5 adventure lies upstream. 22 additional km of as yet un-run river remain virgen. A potential put in for this stretch is on the major tributary at Puente Corcoludo which can be reached via the unpaved road to Termas Tolhuaca at an elevation of 1063 meters. Bed rock sluice boxes, heavy vegetation will makes this a time intensive venture. If someone gives it a go please let me know how it worked out.

Use topo map 1:50,000 scale of the area titled Curacautín G-063

Other nearby rivers include Cautín, Blanco del Sur, Blanco de Cautín, Captren, Truful Truful, Calbuco and Quepe

Rio Captren

kurt casey — Mon, 23 Nov 2009 15:53:28 +0000

The Captren flows off the snow-covered, north western flank of Volcan Llaima (3125 meters) and has it’s headwaters within The Parque Nacional Conguillio at Laguna Captren. The river, however, is not runnable in its upper reaches but instead provides the right combination of gradient and flow for it’s final 3 km descent to the confluence with Rio Cautín. Upon reaching the Cautín it is another 3 km of big water boating until the first takeout opportunity at the old Puente Cautín.

Approach to the falls

Roger and Emilio scouting the falls

To reach the put in from Temuco take ruta 5 north to Lautaro then to Curacautín. At the eastern edge of the town follow signs to RUTA INTERLAGOS or Parque Nacional Congillio. Follow the road until you reach Puente Blanco Del Sur. Immediately after the bridge turn right on a gravel road and follow it 400 meters until you reach the wooden bridge over Captren. Put in here by seal launching off the bank.

To reach the takeout continue approximately 5-6 km downstream and find a gravel road to the right that leads to the old bridge over the Cautín River.

On the 6 km run the first 2 km has swift moving clear water passing through a densely forested mini canyon. Some class 3 rapids quickly turn to the class 5+ Captren falls. At 7 meters in height these falls need just the right flow to safely make it to the lip with multiple holes, fallen trees and volcanic razor rocks guarding the approach.

After either running or portaging (a bit difficult but possible) the falls the river enters a 30 meter deep canyon and within a few meters enters the big water of the Cautín.

Other nearby rivers: Quepe, Truful Truful, Alpehue, Queupude, Calbuco, Blanco del Sur, Cautín.

I would recommend a 1:50,000 scale topo map of the area titled Curacautín G-063

Rio Blanco (Cautín)

kurt casey — Mon, 23 Nov 2009 15:38:56 +0000

The Rio Blanco is an easy access, class 3 run flowing off the snowfields on the southern flank of Volcan Tolhuaca.

Tolhuaca Volcano view from put in

The run is best done during peak spring runoff or after extended periods of heavy rain. The water is ice cold. It is perhaps the only run in Chile where I would suggest poggies or gloves.

Mellow rapids at put in

To reach the take out in from Curacautín go a few kilometers east towards the Argentine border and stop at Puente Blanco where the river passes underneath the bridge.

To reach put in go 200 meters towards the east and turn on road towards Laguna Blanca. Go 6 km then turn left into Fundo Los Prados. the road meanders around and reaches a wooden bridge over the river in another 1 km.

The 6 km stretch of river passes 2 bridges on route and numerous islands. The river is basically one continuous class 3 rapid but the best concentration of whitewater is in the first 2 km.

We ran the river in mid November with flow estimated at 600 CFS. The river drops 150 meters over 6 km with average gradient of 25 mpk or 125 FPM.

Note: you can turn the trip into a longer run by continuing to alternative takeouts downstream. 5 KM downstream you pass optional takeout at Puente Trahuico which is on the Interlagos road. 9 more km downstream one can takeout at Puente Rariruca (see description for Rio Dillo for directions to here) on the Cautín. running this complete stretch would make for a 20 km run. Along this additional stretch the river would grow in volume with additional flow of tributaries Negro, Amantible, Dillo and eventually Cautín.

I would recommend a 1:50,000 scale topo map of the area titled Curacautín G-063

Other nearby rivers: Quepe, Truful Truful, Dillo, Captren, Blanco del Sur, Calbuco and Cautín.

Rio Calbuco

kurt casey — Sun, 22 Nov 2009 12:41:09 +0000

Draining the South Western flank of Volcan Llaima (3125 meters) is the deceivingly innocent Rio Calbuco. After meandering thru braided debris flows coming off the flanks of the volcano, the river tightens up at Puente Calbuco for it’s thundering 8 km descent to the confluence with Rio Quepe below town of Cherquenco.

Fields Marshall at confluence of Rio Tigre

I camped along the upper stretches of this river with my family in December 2004 but it was not until November 2009 that the river was run by a group of Pennsylvania kayakers Emilio Ledonne, Ken Craig, Roger Pyle, Fields Marshall, Keith Schloss and Kurt Casey.

To reach the take out go east on paved road S-31 from Temuco to Vilcun then on to Cherquenco. Upon entering Cherquenco turn right upon reaching the plaza and follow the road about 2 km down to steel and concrete bridge over the Quepe River. Continue 200 hundred kilometers and turn left. Go 200 meters and park in the town cemetery, which has access to the Calbuco River (note this point is 100 meters above the confluence with Rio Quepe with an elevation of approximately 500 meters.

To reach the put in return to the plaza in Cherquenco and turn right and proceed over the swinging bridge high above the Quepe river (See description for Quepe if this marginally runnable river is of interest) Continue 2 kilometers on this paved road then turn right on the unpaved RUTA INTERLAGOS. Continue 6 km to Puente Calbuco (elevation 640 meters).

On the downstream side of the bridge is a gauge. We ran the river on November 20, 2009 with a gauge reading of 1.4. I would guess the flow at the bridge was 400 CFS. The first hundred meters was a bit scratchy but the river quickly turned to bedrock with a continuous, channelized character. Class 3-4 rapids continue for 1-1/2 kilometers where the Estero El Tigre cascades in from the left and bumps up the flow another 200 CFS.

The whitewater is continuous and reasonable for next 600 meters but then quickly enters a class 5+ slot canyon that culminates in an awe inspiring 30 meters falls. Do not blunder blindly into this canyon as there is no eddy before the big falls.

30 meter high Calbuco Falls

The portage around the falls is an adventure in itself. After great views from the top a fisherman’s trail needs to be located several hundred meters downstream to reach the base. Cliffs and dense foliage make locating the trail a formidable task. Multiple logging trails criss-cross the forest making for a very confusing journey.

Scouting the Calbuco Falls

To our surprise we found the Interlagos road while trying to find the trail down to the river and realized it is possible to visit the falls without a kayak. If you driver from Cherquenco and turn onto the Ruta Inerlagos road (same as for put-in), proceed 3.8 KM then park car and climb through a fence on the right. Walk several hundred meters into the forest and you will eventually reach the cliffs above the river. Follow the cliffs upstream until you reach the falls.

Overall this class 3-4 stretch drops 140 meters in 8 km. 40 of those meters are lost within the 1 km stretch of the falls, and the remaining 100 meters of gradient is consistently spaced out over 7 km of river making for an average gradient of 15 m/km or 75 FPM (excluding the falls). The river is best run in the high water spring runoff or after prolonged periods of heavy rain.

Other nearby rivers: Quepe, Truful Truful, Alpehue, Queupude, Captren, Blanco del Sur, Cautín.

I would highly recommend a 1:50,000 scale topo map of the area titled Laguna Quepe G-074

Río Palena

John Foss (posthumously) — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 01:57:32 +0000

The Palena is a beautiful, although blustery, multi-day trip with nary a trace of whitewater. A dense pall of fog clings to Volcán Melimoyú (2400 m), the lofty summit that overlooks the lower river west of the Carretera Austral. Much of the forest is uncut, having escaped the fire-ravaged scenarios in other parts of Patagonia. Endless flatwater and hellacious upstream winds in the afternoon make this trip best suitable for experienced sea kayakers or motorized sport boaters. A gauntlet of logs in places, and a swift, powerful current are the only significant hazards.

You can resupply where the river nears the road by parking your vehicle at Balsa Palena or La Junta on the Carretera Austral. A private hot springs on river right near Melimoyú is a nice respite from the sometimes nasty weather. To soak, ask permission first and then be prepared to pay a fee.

From Chaitén, drive south 76 km to Villa Santa Lucia. At the crossroads, continue east 84 km to Palena. Put in outside of town at Puente Palena elevation 305 meters. Near the end of your trip, take the right channel around Isla Los Canales, then paddle north in Estero Pitipalena to the take-out. to arrive at the coastal hamlet of Puerto Raúl, near Balmaceda

Note: In year 2008 a new road was built connecting La Junta with the coast

This 170 km multi-day class I•II float trip starts out small and finishes much larger with the entrance of several major rivers including Figueroa/Rosselot, El Tigre, Rio del Oeste, etc. Flows at takeout can vary from 1000 to 20,000 CFS depending on time of year. The river is runnable at anytime of year but nicer in summer due to weather.

Topo maps include Palena, El Malito, Cerro Tictoc, La Junta, Río Risopatrón, Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda

Río Cisnes (Piedra del Gato)

kurt casey — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 16:03:16 +0000

Boaters migrating down the Carretera Austral inevitably flock to the Piedra del Gato overlook to check out the Río Cisnes. For good reason, this roadside canyon is a great place to unwind and stretch your legs after circumventing the southwest corner of Cordillera Queulat. If you decide to paddle the Cisnes, you’ll find some tough, intermittently spaced class IV rapids, with a possible portage around the rapid that you can see from the overlook.

View of the big rapid at high water which features a 3-4 meter drop into a huge hole

From Puyuhuapi, 199 km south of Chaitén, drive south through Parque Nacional Queulat. Take out 1.5 km downstream from the Carretera Austral/Puerto Cisnes junction, where an obscure trail on river right winds down to the shore elevation 120 meters. Look for the trail below an island roughly 500 m after the last class IV rapid. Put in approximately 10 km upstream on the Carretera Austral, where a small break in the forest leads down to the river to elevation 200 meters. A friendly roadside hosteria at km 140 near Puente Río Cisnes has a hot shower. If you want to drive to the 33 km to the coast, excellent fresh seafood can be purchased in Puerto Cisnes.

Typical rapid at high water

This stretch is runnable year round. Normal flows are 1500 to 1800 CFS but can get big after sustained heavy rains. The 10 km stretch class IV•IV+ stretch has average gradient of only 8 mpk or 40 FPM but still features some good class IV action especially at high water.

Other nearby rivers include Veintisqueros, Manihuales, Simpson. And Figueroa

Topo map titled Río Queulat

Río Cajón

Josh Lowry — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 15:54:42 +0000

Volcanic ash and cinders blanket the Río Cajón basin, which lies downwind from Volcán Hudson (1369 m). After laying dormant for twenty years, Hudson erupted in August 1991 wreaking considerable property damage and environmental change in Chile Chico and western Argentina. Meter-thick ash deposits buried a 25 km section of the Carretera Austral.

Spend the time, roughly six hours, to thoroughly scout the entire run before committing to a descent. The ash fall and resultant carnage in the forest have knocked many trees into the river. They add considerably to the already high level of danger on this run.

At the put-in, the Cajón cuts a braided channel below glacial-covered peaks. After a few kilometers, the river enters a narrow 30 m-deep class II basalt canyon, which resembles a half-pipe draped with hanging vegetation. When the geology changes to granitic basement rock, look for a sawmill on the left that marks the beginning of the tough drops. Less skilled boaters should take out here. Downstream, you must negotiate several log strainers, sieves, and class IV rapids en route to a portage around a big log jam. Countless trees have piled up in this narrow cleft to form a massive 6 m-high obstruction. Do not miss the last chance micro-eddy just above this death trap where the swift current piles into the trees. In January 1997, a German team lost a boat in the big log jam after someone swam upstream. Apparently, they recovered it after a few hours of probing.

A 100 m-deep, 3 m-wide, unscoutable slot canyon lies not far downstream. Drag your boat up to the rim, hike downstream through the trees on the pumice, and put in immediately below the end of the slot canyon where you can paddle back upstream through this dark, narrow chasm.

Below here you will encounter a vertical-walled canyon with wall-to-wall class V rapids, many blind turns through large boulders, and extremely difficult scouting at river level. Do not attempt this section unless you are up for the challenge.

From Villa Cerro Castillo, 100 km south of Coihaique, drive west 20 km on the Carretera Austral heading up the broad Ibañez valley until the road leaves the main river and follows the Cajón. Look for a decent take-out shortly thereafter 375 meters elevation. Scout the lower canyon with binoculars on your way upstream. Put in at an old corral approximately 11 km upstream at 540 m elevation

This class V+ stretch is 11 km long with average gradient of 15 mpk or 80 FPM and has flow of 600 CFS in spring and summer. Expect 5-6 hours to complete the run and have 3-4 portages.

Topo maps are titled Chile Chico • Cerro Sin Nombre, Cerro Hudson

Río Fuy (Lower)

kurt casey — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 15:50:50 +0000

Flowing warm and transparent out of Lago Pirehueico deep in the heart of Chile’s Lake District, the Fuy’s astonishing clarity is a sight to behold. With a dense canopy of coihue trees overhanging its banks, the river has an exotic, even ethereal, Gondwanaland feel to it.

Michael Shields crashing thru the wavetrain below Puente Huilo-Huilo its bigger than it looks

In the spring, the river’s continuous, eddy-hopping, boulder-garden rapids get big and pushy, offering quite a contrast to the waterfalls upstream. The most difficult rapid, 300 m downstream from the put-in, should be scouted. Below Puente Huilo-Huilo, the Fuy opens up for flattop views of Volcáns El Mocho (2422 m) and Choshuenco (2415 m). Kayakers love this run, although for some unknown reason, rafters rarely drop in. Since the Fuy is threatened by hydroelectric development, get to know this river before ENDESA takes it away from you.

From Lanco, 763 km south of Santiago, drive east to Panguipulli (Mapuche for “city of roses”) on CH 203. Continue around the north side of Lago Panguipulli towards Choshuenco. For an alternate route from Pucón, drive east from Villarica, then south on the pavement through the lovely lakeside villas of Lican Ray and Coñaripe. Continue east to Carirringue, turn south, and drive past Lago Neltume. At the T intersection, turn west to reach Puente Huilo-Huilo. Put in here, or drive back upstream 1.2 km to a gate. Continue down the road 500 m to the trailhead, then walk ten minutes to the river below a small diversion project. Elevation 300 meters.

To reach the take-out, drive down CH 203 towards Panguipulli. Cross Puente Huilo-Huilo and unmarked Puente Punahue, turn right, and drive 400 m to Puente Llanquihue elevation 195 meters. Or continue down to Lago Panguipulli, and take out on the bucolic, black sand beach in Choshuenco.

This 4.5 km class III+•IV run is best in spring and early summer with flows of 1500-2000 CFS. There are usually no portages and average gradient is 23 mpk or 120 FPM.

Nearby rives include the Neltume, Enco, Reyehueco, Llizan, San Pedro and Llancahue

Topo map labled Neltume, Choshuenco

Río Blanco (Cerro Castillo)

John Foss (posthumously) — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 15:48:20 +0000

The Río Blanco cuts through canyons of geology run amok in the northeastern sector of Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo. The most prominent peak in the park, Cerro Castillo (2675 m), was so named because its craggy ridges and basalt turrets resemble a medieval castle. For the geology enthusiast, the river corridor offers a cornucopia of beautiful, short canyons consisting of polished salt-and-pepper granite, dark columnar basalt, pearly limestone, and russet-stained shales, mudstones and sandstones.

Upon entry into the first canyon, we portaged a undercut 5 m-high entry waterfall. At high flows, do not paddle blindly into this limestone gorge prior to scouting. Climb up and over a steep hill on the right for a look. At low flows it is possible to catch an eddy just above the lip of the waterfall. In the next canyon, a magnificent waterfall cascades over vertical granite into the river from the left. Below here the river flows through numerous other short class III-IV gorges of alternating sedimentary rocks and granite. Interspersed between the canyons are nondescript, class III boulder garden rapids.

Run the Blanco at high water in November for some potentially great whitewater action. Clay Wright, Josh Lowry, and I had a scratchy but runnable flow of 500 cfs at the take-out on our mid-December 1994 first descent. The whitewater would be much more exciting at higher flows, especially where tilted ramps of limestone and granite form wild, continuous, slidin’ slabs. The lengthy shuttle and windy, flatwater finale make for a long day, so get an early start. A number of great campsites provide the opportunity to linger overnight in one of the canyons.

From the frontier town of El Blanco, approximately 30 km south of Coihaique, continue south following the signs to Cochrane. Along the way, Cerro Castillo comes into view to the north. Excellent camping abounds in the Nothofagus forest adjacent to Laguna Chiguay. Put in where the road makes an abrupt turn to the south at the confluence of Estero Chico Blanco and Estero Los Mallines elevation 770 meters. If Estero Blanco Chico is high enough, put in 4 km upstream along the road below the lethal culverts. Take out 26 km downstream at Puente El Blanco, 500 m west of El Blanco at elevation 425 meters..

This 26 km class IV run is best done in spring months with flows in 500-800 CFS range. Average gradient is 13 mpk or 70 FPM. There is usually one portage.

Some other nearby rivers include Pollux, Simpson, and Ibañez,

Topo map titled Balmaceda

Río Petrohué (Upper)

John Foss (posthumously) — Sat, 24 Oct 2009 21:29:10 +0000

The Río Petrohué drains Lago Todos los Santos in Parque Nacional Vicente Perez Rosales. It is the largest park in the Chilean Lake District and adjoins Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi in Argentina to form one of the biggest contiguous tracts of protected trans-Andean wilderness in South America. Established in 1926, it is the second oldest national park in Chile.

Beware: Petrohué means “place of flies” in Mapuche, and no one doubts that the hard-biting tabanos and Culihuachos rule here in December and January. But don’t let the flies deter your plans, great whitewater abounds on the upper Petrohué. The action includes big, bouncy, class IV drops, surfing waves, and friendly play holes. Approximately 3 km below the put-in, a volcanic wash draining the southern slopes of Osorno marks the top of an obscure, difficult island drop that should always be scouted and is often portaged. The river turns sharply to the left and pinches down into a narrow slot. A big rock and turbulent hole command the right side forcing a precise move to the left. At higher flows, careful inspection will reveal a far left sneak route.

Continuing downstream, the tumultuous Saltos del Río Petrohué serves as a logical take-out at elevation 120 meters. Although the Saltos has been run at high water from the lip of the last waterfall, it is usually portaged because of the tortured water that bursts through the deadly fluted and fissured basalt chutes directly upstream. Scout the continuous class III-IV action leading to the waterfall prior to embarking on a trip. Once the horde of tourists appears at the overlook, you should move to river right and take out. Obscure trails lead out to the road. Reenter the park via the tourist gate to run the falls or continue down the lower class III run. In the past, the friendly rangers have let us enter for free. Proceed down the main trail to the saltos, or turn right onto the Los Enamorados trail that provides access below the falls.

Lago Todos los Santos sits at the bottom of a deep glacial trough, creating a glaciated fiord-like topography. The stunning, simmering giant, Volcán Osorno (2652 m), towers above the river to the north. Other peaks on the horizon include Volcán Calbuco (2003 m) to the south, the eroded neck of Volcán Puntiagudo (2493 m) to the northeast, and Monte Tronador (3491 m) straddling the continental divide to the southeast.

The Petrohué was slated as another component in ENDESA’s nationwide hydroelectric development scheme. Local opposition thwarted ENDESA’s plans for a dam. The outcry forced ENDESA to relinquish its water rights, thus preserving one of Chile’s finest free-flowing rivers from source to sea.

From the resort town of Puerto Varas, 996 km south of Santiago, drive east around the southern edge of Lago Llanquihue, the fourth largest lake in South America. After reaching Ensenada, continue east 16 km into the park and the outlet to Lago Todos los Santos elevation 190 meters. These two lakes were once connected in early interglacial epochs, but subsequent lava flows from the eruptions of Osorno and Calbuco separated the two. Good campsites site lie a few kilometers downstream from the Saltos at the Los Patos campground.

The 6 km class IV•V- run is boatable year round with flows varying greatly from 1500 CFS upwards. Average gradient is 12 mpk or 60 FPM

Topo map titled Puerto Montt

Río Petrohué (Lower)

John Foss (posthumously) — Sat, 24 Oct 2009 21:27:49 +0000

The lower Petrohué is a popular commercial raft trip and a good run for intermediate kayakers. Its wide-open rapids require a minimum of maneuvering to negotiate safely. Surfing the warm, azure waves entail backing down and stroking hard because there are few convenient eddies. Calm interludes allow ample time to gaze at the lofty heights of Volcán Osorno (2652 m) looming over the river to the north.

Refer to the upper Petrohué description for directions to Parque Nacional Vicente Perez Rosales. Starting at the base of the Saltos del Río Petrohué involves running a turbulent class IV rapid immediately upon entry into the river. For an easier alternative, drive down the road a couple of kilometers to the campground at Los Patos elevation 85 meters. Put in on an irrigated boulder pile, bumping and grinding 200 m down to the confluence with the Petrohué.

To find the take-out, drive 13.5 km from the Los Patos campground towards Ralún. Park your vehicle at Puente Huenu-Huenu, a bridge spanning a tiny creek flowing into the Petrohué. Scout this small tributary well; it is easy to miss. You’ll have to hike up this streambed to avoid kilometers of flatwater and a commercial take-out fee downstream. Elevation here is 25 meters above sea level.

This 12 km class III stretch is boatable year round with flows ranging from 1500 CFS upwards. Average gradient is 5 mpk or 26 FPM with no portages.

Topo map titled Puerto Montt

Río Claro (Tinguiririca)

John Foss (posthumously) — Sat, 24 Oct 2009 21:25:47 +0000

This tributary of the Tinguiririca features great views of the Cordilleras Rubiana and Huemulina, good class III whitewater, and a wealth of desert wildflowers in the spring. Aspiring intermediate boaters will enjoy this river. On our only run, we had a scratchy flow of 7-10 cms. With more water, its pool-drop rapids would undoubtedly get more exciting.

From San Fernando, 132 km south of Santiago, drive east 27 km following the signs to Sierra’s de Bellavista. After crossing the Tinguiririca at Puente Negro, continue to the take-out at Puente Las Piñas. Pass through the village of Sierra’s de Bellavista then drive 2 km to Fundo Huemul Alto. Access may be a problem, so make sure you obtain permission to enter the ranch when you drive upstream from Sierra’s de Bellavista. Continue 1 km past Fundo Huemul Alto, keeping to the left when in doubt. Park your car in an open field near the apiary. Walk 1.5 km down to the river on a road that eventually turns into a foot path.. Put-in elevation is 860 meters.

This 12 km class III+ run has average gradient of 15 mpk or 75 FPM with no portages and 400 plus CFS volume only achievable in winter and spring.

Topo map titled Sierras de Bellavista, Río Clarillo

Rio Cisnes (Upper)

John Foss (posthumously) — Sat, 24 Oct 2009 21:24:07 +0000

Don’t be fooled by the low average gradient on the upper Cisnes. Its citadel rock walls reverberate with the roar of great whitewater rising from the abyss. Located east of the Carretera Austral, this precipitous canyon forms the southeastern boundary of Parque Nacional Queulat. Although off the beaten, dusty track, the magnificence of this canyon makes the added time and effort to reach it worthwhile.

Rapids of little consequence make up the first half of the trip. Below the confluence with Estero Quemas, an inviting, narrow side canyon from the north, the river begins to flex its muscles. Numerous scouts are required at blind horizon lines created by boulders polished white by millennia of rushing waters. As the gradient steepens, a portage or two may be prudent depending on the water level, although all the drops have been run. High water runs would be sketchy due to the presence of sieves, undercuts, and one unportagable rapid. In case of an accident, bailout possibilities in the gorge are arduous, if not impossible.

From Villa Amengual near Cisnes Medio, 288 km south of Chaitén on the Carretera Austral, drive east approximately 20 km on X-25 towards La Tapera and the Argentine border. Finding the arbitrary put-in and take-out requires your attention to the topography. After ascending a few switchbacks, look down at the end of the canyon. Take out shortly downstream from here (elevation 430 meters) by hiking up to the road. Put in 12 km upstream from this point at a pullout on the left (elevation 310 meters), where the road descends close to river level. Vehicle traffic is sparse in this region, so be prepared to “hoof it” on the shuttle.

Fishing is absolute amazing and you can see the fish in pools below you as you boat.

This 12 km class IV+•V- stretch is best run at early and mid summer flows of 300 to 700 CFS with average gradient of 10 mpk or 50 fpm

Topo map titled Laguna Las Quemas

Rio Salto Del Tigre

John Foss (posthumously) — Sat, 24 Oct 2009 15:49:39 +0000

On our first descent in February 1998, Joe Larrow, John Hart, Aaron Pruzan, Robby Dastin, and I encountered an irritatingly low flow at the put-in. If there had been a road nearby, I would have bailed out. Nevertheless, we persevered only to encounter bumping and grinding class III boulder gardens in the headwaters and grueling rappel portages around condo-sized boulders and cataracts in El Salto canyon (13 in total). Below the confluence of the Río Azul, where the volume doubled and the name changes to the El Tigre, the severity of the gradient eased making the river more boatable. Tattered, cut, and bruised, it was a Pyrrhic victory for us. We got what we deserved after hearing rumors of Spe’s bailout, then failing to check out the insane gradient prior to our descent. (in one section it reaches 788 FPM!!!!)

The optimal window to run this river is very small, indeed. A half-a-meter more water would have made our trip an awesome endeavor. Much more than that and we would have been forced to hike out. I will never “paddle” the upper canyon again, but I would jump at the chance to hike up to or beyond the Río Azul for the second half of this trip, where the gradient eases up. The Azul looks great on the map with its headwaters draining Parque Nacional Palena. At the right flow (~15-17 cms), this 8 km-long El Tigre section is easily runnable in a day. A trail on river right allows you to preview the run from the take-out. Camping is marginal in El Salto canyon, and not much better on the El Tigre, where Cerro Pico Morro (2006 m) peeks over the western horizon.

From Villa Santa Lucia, 77 km south of Chaitén, drive east on the road to Futaleufú. At the crossroads east of Lago Yelcho, follow the signs east 42 km to Palena. Climb the hill behind the Plaza de Armas in Palena, and drive west. After passing Puente Don Daniel, continue another 2.5 km, turn left, and drive upstream to the end of the road. Elevation 225 meters. To reach the put-in, drive east from Palena towards the border. Turn south at the sign to Valle California and continue approximately 11 km, eventually entering Fundo El Quemado. Ask a local where the turnoff is to Pasarela Río El Salto elevation 650 meters.

Best run in early summer or later after a hard rain. If you repeat the whole journey it is 19 km, class V+ in upper canyon and more reasonable IV+ from confluence with azul.

Topo map titled Palena

Rio Resbalón

John Foss (posthumously) — Sat, 24 Oct 2009 15:38:58 +0000

After tumbling through a foggy, verdant canyon upstream, the Resbalón meanders into Bahia Murta, the northwest arm of Lago Bertrand. Because of its lush vegetation and sheer walls, bailouts are virtually impossible. More than a few inconveniently placed logs require caution. Even though the canyon is tight, there is sufficient room to scout and portage. If the riverbed looks scratchy at the bridge, the level is about right for the action upstream. Its pristine beauty and quality whitewater make the Resbalón an excellent candidate for wild and scenic river protection.
From Villa Cerro Castillo, 139 km south of Coihaique, drive 95 km southwest to Bahia Murta. The trailhead to hike up the south side of the river begins about a km from Puente Resbalón towards Bahia Murta. From the trailhead, walk for 4 hours on a high trail that eventually winds down to river level at elevation 350 meters. Take out at Puente Resbalón 245 meters.

This 4 km, class V run is best done at spring/summer flows of 500 CFS. Expect one or more portages with average gradient of 26 mpk or 140 FPM.

Topo map titled Bahía Murta, Tres Arroyos