Float this headwater run when the river is swollen from snowmelt. Below the confluence with the Río Rucanuco, the Bío-Bío opens up to broad vistas of the surrounding countryside. For the next 50-60 km, cattle graze in the adjacent fields while you float through occasional class II rapids. Approximately 10 km upstream from Lonquimay, a surprise series of angled ledge drops require precise maneuvering in a raft.

To find the headwater lakes, drive east from Victoria, 614 km south of Santiago, to Lonquimay. From Lonquimay, drive southeast approximately 75 km toward Laguna de Gualletué (Mapuche for “land where the oak trees grow”) and the Pehuenche town of Icalma. An alternate route to Icalma leads east from Temuco through Cunco and Melipeuco. Put in on Laguna de Icalma (Mapuche for “clean as a mirror”) out of which the Río Rucanuco flows, or turn off just before the lake at a sign pointing towards Laguna de Gualletué and the Bío-Bío. Numerous dirt tracks and a lack of signs can lead to confusion. Persistence will pay off by staying on the main two-wheel track and continuing north toward the distant hills approximately 10 km from the turnoff. The elevation at put in is 1145 meters.

The takeout is reached by returning to Lonquimay and driving north 20 km to the put-in at Balsadero Caracoles. This 100 KM class II•III run is best in spring or early summer but I have seen it in early February and it still looked boatable. Flows range from 1000 to 5000 CFS and average gradient is 4 mpk or 20 FPM making it suitable for multi-day family raft trip. The fishing is very good so bring a rod.

Nearby rivers include Llanquen and the Cautin. A gate on a private road prevents access from the lower Bio Bio and other tribuataries such as Queuco, Lomin, Ralco and Chalquivin.

Topo maps titled • Laguna de Icalma, Liucura, Laguna Marinanqui, Lonquimay

Narrow stretch of river visible from the road

The Bío-Bío valley was the southern terminus of the Spanish colonial empire. Excluding a few coastal settlements, the conquistadors never subdued the inland Mapuches, who held fast for nearly 300 years by fiercely defended their homeland. They were one of the few indigenous tribes in the Americas to withstand the Spanish onslaught, maintaining a traditional lifestyle long after Chilean independence in 1821.

Two of the six proposed dam sites in the Bío-Bío watershed, Huequecura and Aguas Blancas, are situated along this section of the river. If built, these dams would flood most of the run. Plans for the lowest hydroelectric site, Quitramen, include a four-dam complex that would inundate the floodplain between Santa Barbara and the Pan American Highway.

From Los Angeles, 517 km south of Santiago, drive 3 km south on the Pan American Highway, then turn east on the paved road to Santa Barbara. Continue upstream 42 km to the put-in at the confluence with the Río Queuco at elevation 330 meters. Take out at Puente Quilaco, 1 km upstream from Santa Barbara elevation 145 meters. To decrease the amount of flatwater, take out 16 km upstream from Santa Barbara immediately after passing under a concrete arch spanning the narrow canyon. You will have a short, strenuous climb to reach the highway.

This 40 km stretch is best run in high water spring runoff but is adequate for year round paddling. With average gradient of 5 mkm or 26 FPM the river provides plenty of puch and play oppourtunites with springtime flows exceeding 10,000 CFS.

Topo maps of region Laguna de la Laja • Loncopangue, Rucalhue

You can resupply where the river nears the road by parking your vehicle at Balsa Palena or La Junta on the Carretera Austral. A private hot springs on river right near Melimoyú is a nice respite from the sometimes nasty weather. To soak, ask permission first and then be prepared to pay a fee.

From Chaitén, drive south 76 km to Villa Santa Lucia. At the crossroads, continue east 84 km to Palena. Put in outside of town at Puente Palena elevation 305 meters. Near the end of your trip, take the right channel around Isla Los Canales, then paddle north in Estero Pitipalena to the take-out. to arrive  at the coastal hamlet of Puerto Raúl, near Balmaceda

Note: In year 2008 a new road was built connecting La Junta with the coast

This 170 km multi-day class I•II float trip starts out small and finishes much larger with the entrance of several major rivers including Figueroa/Rosselot, El Tigre, Rio del Oeste, etc. Flows at takeout can vary from 1000 to 20,000 CFS depending on time of year. The river is runnable at anytime of year but nicer in summer  due to weather.

Topo maps include Palena, El Malito, Cerro Tictoc, La Junta, Río Risopatrón, Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda

This gentle class II•III, 14 km stretch is best run in spring and early summer with flows over 1000 CFS. The average gradient is 32 FPM

Topo maps titled Coihaique, Río Correntoso

In contrast to the tumultuous whitewater upstream, the lower Baker is a beautiful, muy tranquilo, multi-day float through the heart of central Patagonia. The first descent of the river in 1983 by Francisco Valle and Luis Ortega was part of their epic, month-long circumnavigation of Campo de Heilo Norte by raft, motorized launch, and ultimately, foot.

In 1992, Sobek spent five days floating the river after bailing out on the upper run. They reported sublime scenery, numerous condor sightings, and warm hospitality from the nearby farmers. This region of Chile was ravaged by ill-advised, government-sponsored forest fires in the early part of the 20th century to create sheep and cattle grazing habitat. Unfortunately, much of the land remains deforested to this day.

Put in 5 km north of Cochrane at Balsa Baker elevation 90 meters. Twenty kilometers downstream the Río de la Colonia enters the Baker from the west. The valley is shadowed by numerous 2000 m peaks including Cerro Puño (2233 m) to the north and Cerro Trunco (2103 m) to the south. Another 25 kilometers downstream, the Río de los Ñadis joins the Baker from the east. Peaks in this drainage range from 2000-2300 m-high. Ten more kilometers lead to a short, narrow gorge with the last drop requiring a 500 m portage on a good trail on river left. Below the portage, the Río Ventisquero enters the Baker 10 km downstream enlarging the river to half a kilometer wide. You can see evidence of substantial clearing of the rainforest for agricultural pursuits. Upon rounding the ice pack, the countryside changes from a comfortable arid setting to a much wetter environment as the river makes its final push west to the coast and the frontier town of Tortel.

On the approach to Tortel, stay to the left when the channel braids around a large island. Take out at the Tortel airstrip and either hike twenty minutes to town or hire a boat taxi. Here the elevation is basically 0 as you have reached the ocean. A recently completed road that links to the Carretera Austral provides access back to Cochrane and it is possible to hitch a ride with private vehicle or the occasional public transportation. An evening in Tortel, however, is well advised. This fishing hamlet is definitely at “the end of road” and only recently with completion of the road is more easily accessible to catch a glimpse of its unique history and character. Built completely on palafillos , or wooden stilts made of locally harvested Cipress, this small fishing/logging hamlet is interlinked by over 20 km of boardwalks.

Topo maps of entire journey are: Cochrane • Valle Chacabuco, Lago Chacabuco, Los Ñadis, Lago Vargas, Caleta, Puerto Alegre, Caleta Tortel)

This 5-7 day trip is 133 km in length with average gradient of .67 mpk or 3-1/2 FPM. With flows exceeding 40,000 CFS there is plenty of current interspersed with flatwater.

Other nearby rivers include Pascua, Bravo, Chacabuco and upper Baker

From Lanco, 763 km south of Santiago, drive east to Panguipulli on CH 203. Travel on a gravel road around the north side of Lago Panguipulli to Choshuenco. Continue south and put in where the river exits Lago Panguipulli. From Pucón take the shortcut south to Lago Panguipulli via Villarica and Lican Ray. To find the take-out, drive 11 km downstream to a point where the road descends to river level. Turn right at an obscure pull-out just above the inlet to Lago Riñihue.

Like the nearby Rio Tolten, the Enco is another fisherman’s. On a summer day you are likely to find wooden dorys navigating its course with intrepid fisherman casting from their decks while a guide manouvers the boat.

The class 2 river can be run year round with high water in winter and spring months. Flows can reach 4000 CFS but with gentle gradient of 16 FPM, this 10 km stretch provides for a relaxing float on big blue wave trains.

The put in is at the exit of Lago Villarrica (213 meters elevation) and the takeout is at the confluence of the Rio Pedregozo (guess on elevation is 125 meters). The run is over 20 km in length and takes a solid 4 hours. A safe place to leave your vehicle at the put in is the pescadero launch where the local fishing guides launch their wooden boats. You can also contract one of these fisherman to take you drift fishing in their wooden dories for 25,000 pesos per person per day which includes equipment and shuttle.

The river can be run year round with low summer flows of 1200 CFS and winter flows in excess of 20,000 CFS.

To reach the takeout (from the Tolten bridge in Villarrica) drive 16.3 KM towards Temuco to Puente Pedregozo. You can park your vehicle just before the bridge on the left hand side in front of someone’s house. There is a steep but good trail down to the river in front of the same house.

Another option is continue downstream another 20 KM or so to another takeout point called Balsadero Coipue and/or the town of Pitrufquen. The river is much calmer in this stretch and requires another 5-6 hours of paddling. For the adventurous types or those looking for a multi day trip switch into sea kayaks

Kurt (Ducky) and Pablo (kayak) just after Pablo’s 7th birthday foto by Eva Luna Ramirez

There are two short sections to the river. The upper sections is 5-6 km long and can be reached in several ways. The easiest is to follow the main road out of Futaleufú towards Chaiten. you will cross over Puente Espolon. The campground on river right serves as a great takeout. To reach a put in continue on main road heading towards Chaiten. There is a turn off about 4 km downstream where you will be able to park just beside the Espolon. To get to a higher put in proceed downstream few hundred yards and turn right following signs to Lago Espolon. Put in at base of a unrunnable falls. Option three is to leave town of Futaleufú heading up the east side of the river. Put in at convenient spot.

Crystal clear water near put in foto by Eva Luna Ramirez

The lower 4 km run begins at Puente Espolon and goes into the Futaleufú. This 4 km stretch has some good play waves and better rapids than upper stretch. A takeout point is on river river right at the old bridge. To reach the take out by car from Puente Futaleufú drive towards Chaiten and after less than 2 km take first major left. there should be a sign that says “La Confluencia”. follow this road until a T intersection and here go left and continue until you reach a river access point.

The lower Espolon also serves as a convenient access route to the Inferno Canyon section of the Futaleufú River. Inferno canyon section for more details