French kayaker Valentin Grollemund

I first started looking at this creek in 1995 but it was not until 2009 that I was able to get back to run it. Equipped with a good topo map, several days of rain, a good group and a newly constructed access road everything fell into place to add another class 4-5 steep creek to the countless options in the Pucon area.

In the canyon of the Trafanpulli

The river is a bit of a geological mystery as it comes within 400 meters of entering Lago Caburgua but then swings northwest and continues another 12 KM before entering Lago Colico. At very high flows some water spills into a flood channel and indeed enters Lago Carburgua. This unique feature means that one river can split and feed two distinct drainages that each runs its parallel course before once again joining each other 80 km downstream where the Allipen joins the Tolten.

To get to the river from Pucon there are two options. Both options take more than two hours although neither option is more than 140 KM. Option 1 is go west to Villarrica and cross over Tolten bridge on main road towards Temuco. Immediately turn right and follow newly constructed road to Pedregozo. From there continue north either on the Interlagos road or the road towards Los Laureles. At a T junction turn right towards Lago Colico and follow its north shore to Puerto Trafanpulli. Continue east and you will begin passing over bridges over the Rio Trfanpulli. Each has a sign with its own bridge number.

The other option is leave Pucon and go east to Curarrehue then north up the Machin valley thru Reigolil and westward down to the Trafanpulli.

Elevations of bridges 2-5 are as follows along with distance between them.

Bridge 2 is at 359 meters and it is 3 km to bridge 3 at 393 meters elevation. It is then 5 km to bridge 4 at 424 meters elevation and another 6.9 km to bridge # 5 at 481 meters elevation. Whitewater is minimal on the bridge to bridge sections but logistics are simple. For the real whitewater us bridge 5 as takeout and proceed east on main road for about 3 km. There will be a turn off to the left with a sign “Al Cercon”. Most likely this gate will be locked and you will need to park the vehicle, climb over the fence and begin hiking with all your gear. After hiking for 3 km (40 minutes) and climbing 200 vertical meters you will come to gravel road forking off to the left with a sign saying “El Zapato”. Follow this road for approximately ½ km as it descends down to a bridge over the river.

This section of river is 4 km down to bridge number 5. The put in is at around 685 meters. We chose to get off the river about 1 km prior to bridge # 5 where we could see the road and from there walked back to get our vehicle 1 KM upstream. The 3 km stretch we ran dropped 185 meters for average gradient of 62 MPK or 310 FPM. We had a estimated flow of 250 CFS which was scratchy and a bit disconcerting at the beginning but as the river quickly channelized in a mature bedrock canyon, the flow proved to be acceptable. Another 100 CFS would be optimal but anything over 500 CFS would be too high. There were 2 short portages that may have been runnable with a little extra juice otherwise the drops were continuous and clean with the largest being a 5 meter falls. For the intrepid boat hiker the maps indicate an additional 2 km stretch upstream with average gradient of 50 mpk but one 300 meter section where river drops 50 meters that must be peppered with waterfalls.

I have seen the river in late January and it had the same flow as when we did it on a rainy spring day on December 1st. For that reason I would guess the run is boatable thru the summer months as the main source of water is snowmelt and groundwater.

Note: Take food and beer and fill your vehicles tank as the nearest stores are at least an hour away.

Other nearby rivers include Blanco de Caburgua, Solipulli, and Truful Truful

Topo maps are very useful and 1:50,000 are available from the IGM Instituto Geographica Militar. The river spills onto two maps with titles being Nevados De Caburgua G-06 and Lago Caburgua 3900-7145

The emerald Río Manso flows through a wild canyon in Parque Nacional Nahual Huapi (Mapuche for “Tiger Island”) south of the ski resort town of San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina. The river drains the southeast flank of Monte Tronador (3491 m) (‘Thunderer’ or ‘Anon’ in Mapuche, whose meaning is almost identical to the Spanish), a white behemoth that dominates the skyline. Manso means gentle or calm, but like the Pacific Ocean, the river belies its name.

Its narrow gorge is cloaked in lush vegetation, including impenetrable colihue and quila thickets. Most of the rapids are short, steep technical drops. Hydrologists report December flows of 48 cms that can turn the trip into a scary nightmare. At least one rapid becomes unscoutable, unportagable, and marginally runnable. Mistakes can turn into epics due to the Manso’s remote, mountainous location, which eliminates the feasibility of hiking out. Therefore, paddlers would be well advised to wait until early January, paying close attention to the weather so other plans can be made if the river becomes swollen from rain. For maximum vistas and minimal misery, try to run the Manso on a sunny day. Although the water is warm, a lack of sunlight in the narrow gorge can make for a cold day on the river.

For most mortals, the run begins in a large pool below Cascada de los Alerces elevation 750 meters. In January 1998, Brennan Guth joined local soccer legend Diego Maradona in Bariloche’s “Hall of Fame” after the first successful descent of this 16 m-high waterfall.

A kilometer downstream of Cascada de los Alerces, the calm water ends abruptly at a triple waterfall with the last drop the highest at about 5 m. All three falls are runnable, but if you are hesitant, there is an easy portage over a hill on the left.

Shortly after the triple falls, the river begins to gorge up. Continuing downstream, you will run five rapids in quick succession. Depending on the flow, it may be prudent to portage a sticky, river-wide hole at the end of this sequence. Portage on the left, following a well-trodden, machete-cut trail. Calm water follows, leading into a left-hand bend with rapids. Directly below the bend is a big, marginal waterfall with a tricky entry. Skilled, confident boaters can reasonably run the rapids and the hole, then get out on the left to portage the falls. A route has been cut through the bamboo, but the muddy, wet rock is treacherous. Not that in 2009 the Demshitz crew ran this falls making every drop on the river runnable.

After the above falls/ portage, a major rapid ensues with a large boulder in the center of the river at the bottom. The last class V rapid is the toughest and most difficult to portage. At higher flows, the only eddy is a tiny one at the top on river right. In the past, paddlers have traversed 5 m down the right wall, then downclimbed to the water. After securing a fixed line, boats were hauled down. People used the line for a backup while walking along a treacherous ledge. At lower flows, the rapid is runnable, and the portage much easier. However, there is still only room for one boat at a time in the eddy. If you find yourself on the river at high flows and are unable to eddy out at the top, sneak down between the pillow and rock on the far right. From here, run tight around the left side of the big boulder downstream. Eddy out behind the boulder, then boof into the next eddy directly below. You must avoid a nasty hole that extends from the left to the center of the river.

One more rapid follows before the gorge opens up. From here the whitewater eases to class III as a wall of mountains appear on both sides of the river. Eventually, the river empties into Lago Steffen, named after a German explorer who passed through the area in the 1880s. Hitch a ride on a powerboat or paddle 8 km across the lake to the take-out. Easterly winds help to surf you across the lake. Running the Manso can be a long day, so get an early start.

From Osorno, 913 km south of Santiago, drive east over Paso de Puyehue into Argentina. Drive southeast to the resort town of San Carlos de Bariloche. Continue 35 km to just south of Villa Mascardi. Turn west onto a dirt road towards Cerro Tronador and Los Alerces, and drive 25 km to Cascada de los Alerces. Follow the road to the end, then walk a few hundred meters down the trail to the river.

To reach the take-out, return to the main highway and drive south 22 km past Lago Guillelmo. Turn west on an unmarked road just before the sign Cañadon de la Mosca, and continue 11 km down the road to Lago Steffen elevation 509 meters.

This 16 km stretch (plus 8 km of flatwater across lake) averages 15 mpk or 80 fpm. It is runnable in summer months at rated as follows class  IV+ at  650-800 cfs with 2 portages,  class V- at 800-1300 cfs with two portages,  class V•V+ at any flow over 1300 cFS or  at any flows if you run what most people portage.

Topo maps titled Villa Mascardi

Spend the time, roughly six hours, to thoroughly scout the entire run before committing to a descent. The ash fall and resultant carnage in the forest have knocked many trees into the river. They add considerably to the already high level of danger on this run.

At the put-in, the Cajón cuts a braided channel below glacial-covered peaks. After a few kilometers, the river enters a narrow 30 m-deep class II basalt canyon, which resembles a half-pipe draped with hanging vegetation. When the geology changes to granitic basement rock, look for a sawmill on the left that marks the beginning of the tough drops. Less skilled boaters should take out here. Downstream, you must negotiate several log strainers, sieves, and class IV rapids en route to a portage around a big log jam. Countless trees have piled up in this narrow cleft to form a massive 6 m-high obstruction. Do not miss the last chance micro-eddy just above this death trap where the swift current piles into the trees. In January 1997, a German team lost a boat in the big log jam after someone swam upstream. Apparently, they recovered it after a few hours of probing.

A 100 m-deep, 3 m-wide, unscoutable slot canyon lies not far downstream. Drag your boat up to the rim, hike downstream through the trees on the pumice, and put in immediately below the end of the slot canyon where you can paddle back upstream through this dark, narrow chasm.

Below here you will encounter a vertical-walled canyon with wall-to-wall class V rapids, many blind turns through large boulders, and extremely difficult scouting at river level. Do not attempt this section unless you are up for the challenge.

From Villa Cerro Castillo, 100 km south of Coihaique, drive west 20 km on the Carretera Austral heading up the broad Ibañez valley until the road leaves the main river and follows the Cajón. Look for a decent take-out shortly thereafter 375 meters elevation. Scout the lower canyon with binoculars on your way upstream. Put in at an old corral approximately 11 km upstream at 540 m elevation

This class V+ stretch is 11 km long with average gradient of 15 mpk or 80 FPM and has flow of 600 CFS in spring and summer. Expect 5-6 hours to complete the run and have 3-4 portages.

Topo maps are titled Chile Chico • Cerro Sin Nombre, Cerro Hudson

Beware: Petrohué means “place of flies” in Mapuche, and no one doubts that the hard-biting tabanos and Culihuachos rule here in December and January. But don’t let the flies deter your plans, great whitewater abounds on the upper Petrohué. The action includes big, bouncy, class IV drops, surfing waves, and friendly play holes. Approximately 3 km below the put-in, a volcanic wash draining the southern slopes of Osorno marks the top of an obscure, difficult island drop that should always be scouted and is often portaged. The river turns sharply to the left and pinches down into a narrow slot. A big rock and turbulent hole command the right side forcing a precise move to the left. At higher flows, careful inspection will reveal a far left sneak route.

Continuing downstream, the tumultuous Saltos del Río Petrohué serves as a logical take-out at elevation 120 meters. Although the Saltos has been run at high water from the lip of the last waterfall, it is usually portaged because of the tortured water that bursts through the deadly fluted and fissured basalt chutes directly upstream. Scout the continuous class III-IV action leading to the waterfall prior to embarking on a trip. Once the horde of tourists appears at the overlook, you should move to river right and take out. Obscure trails lead out to the road. Reenter the park via the tourist gate to run the falls or continue down the lower class III run. In the past, the friendly rangers have let us enter for free. Proceed down the main trail to the saltos, or turn right onto the Los Enamorados trail that provides access below the falls.

Lago Todos los Santos sits at the bottom of a deep glacial trough, creating a glaciated fiord-like topography. The stunning, simmering giant, Volcán Osorno (2652 m), towers above the river to the north. Other peaks on the horizon include Volcán Calbuco (2003 m) to the south, the eroded neck of Volcán Puntiagudo (2493 m) to the northeast, and Monte Tronador (3491 m) straddling the continental divide to the southeast.

The Petrohué was slated as another component in ENDESA’s nationwide hydroelectric development scheme. Local opposition thwarted ENDESA’s plans for a dam. The outcry forced ENDESA to relinquish its water rights, thus preserving one of Chile’s finest free-flowing rivers from source to sea.

From the resort town of Puerto Varas, 996 km south of Santiago, drive east around the southern edge of Lago Llanquihue, the fourth largest lake in South America. After reaching Ensenada, continue east 16 km into the park and the outlet to Lago Todos los Santos elevation 190 meters. These two lakes were once connected in early interglacial epochs, but subsequent lava flows from the eruptions of Osorno and Calbuco separated the two. Good campsites site lie a few kilometers downstream from the Saltos at the Los Patos campground.

The 6 km class IV•V- run is boatable year round with flows varying greatly from 1500 CFS upwards. Average gradient is 12 mpk or 60 FPM

Topo map titled Puerto Montt

Don’t be fooled by the low average gradient on the upper Cisnes. Its citadel rock walls reverberate with the roar of great whitewater rising from the abyss. Located east of the Carretera Austral, this precipitous canyon forms the southeastern boundary of Parque Nacional Queulat. Although off the beaten, dusty track, the magnificence of this canyon makes the added time and effort to reach it worthwhile.

Rapids of little consequence make up the first half of the trip. Below the confluence with Estero Quemas, an inviting, narrow side canyon from the north, the river begins to flex its muscles. Numerous scouts are required at blind horizon lines created by boulders polished white by millennia of rushing waters. As the gradient steepens, a portage or two may be prudent depending on the water level, although all the drops have been run. High water runs would be sketchy due to the presence of sieves, undercuts, and one unportagable rapid. In case of an accident, bailout possibilities in the gorge are arduous, if not impossible.

From Villa Amengual near Cisnes Medio, 288 km south of Chaitén on the Carretera Austral, drive east approximately 20 km on X-25 towards La Tapera and the Argentine border. Finding the arbitrary put-in and take-out requires your attention to the topography. After ascending a few switchbacks, look down at the end of the canyon. Take out shortly downstream from here (elevation 430 meters) by hiking up to the road. Put in 12 km upstream from this point at a pullout on the left (elevation 310 meters), where the road descends close to river level. Vehicle traffic is sparse in this region, so be prepared to “hoof it” on the shuttle.

Fishing is absolute amazing and you can see the fish in pools below you as you boat.

This 12 km class IV+•V- stretch is best run at early and mid summer flows of  300 to 700 CFS with average gradient of  10 mpk or 50 fpm

Topo map titled Laguna Las Quemas

The optimal window to run this river is very small, indeed. A half-a-meter more water would have made our trip an awesome endeavor. Much more than that and we would have been forced to hike out. I will never “paddle” the upper canyon again, but I would jump at the chance to hike up to or beyond the Río Azul for the second half of this trip, where the gradient eases up. The Azul looks great on the map with its headwaters draining Parque Nacional Palena. At the right flow (~15-17 cms), this 8 km-long El Tigre section is easily runnable in a day. A trail on river right allows you to preview the run from the take-out. Camping is marginal in El Salto canyon, and not much better on the El Tigre, where Cerro Pico Morro (2006 m) peeks over the western horizon.

From Villa Santa Lucia, 77 km south of Chaitén, drive east on the road to Futaleufú. At the crossroads east of Lago Yelcho, follow the signs east 42 km to Palena. Climb the hill behind the Plaza de Armas in Palena, and drive west. After passing Puente Don Daniel, continue another 2.5 km, turn left, and drive upstream to the end of the road. Elevation 225 meters. To reach the put-in, drive east from Palena towards the border. Turn south at the sign to Valle California and continue approximately 11 km, eventually entering Fundo El Quemado. Ask a local where the turnoff is to Pasarela Río El Salto elevation 650 meters.

Best run in early summer or later after a hard rain. If you repeat the whole journey it is 19 km, class V+ in upper canyon and more reasonable IV+ from confluence with azul.

Topo map titled Palena

This 4 km, class V run is best done at spring/summer flows of 500 CFS. Expect one or more portages with average gradient of 26 mpk or 140 FPM.

Topo map titled Bahía Murta, Tres Arroyos

I know of two bailouts and no successful completions on the Upper Cachapoal. One by Lars Holbek, Eric Magneson, and Mark Allen in 1985; the other by Greg Moore and Jerry Kaufman in 1988. From their tales of misery, be assured that climbing out of the steep, thorny, chaparral-choked canyon is an ordeal that you will regret. Only attempt this run at low water.

From Rancagua, 87 km south of Santiago, drive 22 km east on the paved Carretera del Cobre. Just before entering Coya’s “Zona Urbana”, turn off the pavement onto a gravel road towards Reserva Nacionál Río de Los Cipreses. Drive past Termas de Cauquenes¬—elegant, pricey, and recommended—16.5 km to the park. Check in at headquarters to request permission and the key to enter the “Zona de Pumas”.

To scout the canyon, stop at Sector Ranchillo and hike down an obscure trail on the upstream side of the campground. You’ll have to ease over the edge on belay to peer into its depths. Afterwards, if you’re still interested, continue on to the put-in at Potrerillos de Maitenes a few kilometers upstream. Hike up to the top of one of the hills for a view to get oriented then find a trail down to the confluence with the Río de Los Cipreses confluence (1045 m) . To find the take-out, backtrack 11 km to the Sector Ranchillo-5 km sign. From this junction, turn in the opposite direction. Follow the switchbacks 1 km down to the river and Bocatoma Cachapoal elevation 910 meters.

This big, cold and nasty 8 km run has yet to be completed. If you want to give it a go come in at absolute minimum flows of late March or April when river levels drop to a potentially manageable flow range of 750 to 1000 CFS which still make this a class V•V+ run with average gradient of 90 FPM. At spring/summer flows which exceed 10,000 CFS this is a punishing deathtrap.

Topo map titled Río Cortaderal

Note: New dams are being constructed at time of this writing Oct 2009. It is unclear how the surrounding roads and rivers will be affected so proceed with caution and do your homework.

Other nearby rivers include: Río de Los Cipreses, Pangal, Rio Clarillo, and the Tinguiririca

Meandering westward on windswept pampas, the river cuts a swath through the upthrusted foothills of the Argentine Andes. As the river enters a sheer-walled canyon, it constricts dramatically, then explodes at an unrunnable sieve. Although bits and pieces of the drops downstream could be run, it is essentially one long portage on river right. Gaping into the narrows during our portage, we came across a well-surveyed dam site and core sample holes. A runnable class V drop ensues, then another wild cascade. When the canyon walls recede, the river eases to fun, boat-scoutable, class IV+ rapids.

With its occasional class V drop, the river is tough enough to keep the intermediate paddler away, yet quite interesting for an expert. A high water run would test your mettle.

From Palena, 146 km southeast of Chaitén, cross the border, drive through Corcovado, continuing east to Estancia Tekca. You need permission and the key from the ranch managerto drive through a gate (note the following info may be outdated but in 1998 the rnach manager was Helena Höbrich FAX: 0945-9303). Behave yourself while on the ranch, or access to this jewel will be lost. Continue 31 km to Sectional Caridad, check in, then drive through the ranch, and go another 7 km west to the top of the canyon and hike down to river elevation 700 meters..

To find the take-out, drive west 500 m from Corcovado. Turn south towards Río Pico on a good gravel road absent from most road maps. When you reach the bridge spanning Arroyo Poncho Morro, drive down on either side of the creek, where you’ll find serene camping under an immense vault of blue sky at elevation 508 meters. The shuttle is 93 km in length.

This 10 km class IV+•V- run is best in spring and summer months with flows of 800 to 1000 CFS. Expect 3 portages with average gradient of 100 FPM.

Topo maps titled Cerro Caballada, Argentina

El Toro’s continuous, steep gradient requires precise boat placement. The higher you ascend, the steeper the gradient. A highlight of the run is an intimidating double drop we named El Vulcanizador, located 500 m upstream from the take out.

To reach the put-in follow same directions as for the Melado which are from Talca, 259 km south of Santiago, drive east through San Clemente to Embalse Colbún. After the pavement turns to gravel, continue upstream along the Maule, crossing Puente Claro en route. Follow the Camino Internacional signs. Just after crossing the Maule, turn west at the Y junction. Stay on the main track—veer to the right if in doubt—until you reach the Río Melado. Drive upstream to Puente Curillinque, then continue on the river left side of the Melado along the Canal de Linares. Keep your eyes peeled for El Toro cascading under the concrete aqueduct. Take out here (800 m elevation) or downstream on the Melado at Puente Curillinque.

To reach the put-in, climb up on top of the concete embankment where you’ll find easy hiking for a few hundred meters in a dry irrigation canal. When the canal disintegrates, climb high up the river right side of the canyon. After a couple of hours you will reach a valley, where the gradient tapers off dramatically. Put in elevation is 1075 meters. We didn’t reach this point only for a lack of time and better planning.

This 5 km long class V•V+(p?) has average gradient of 55 mpk or almost 300 FPM. You need 200 to 300 CFS to run the creek which in a normal water year is only likely during PEAK spring runoff which is usually late October.

Topo map of the area 1:50,000 scale is titled Melado

The dam is owned and operated by CODELCO, the largest copper corporation in the world. For release information contact: Central Pangal engineer, Tel: (072)-297890; or Coya manager, Tel: (072)-297881.

If you find yourself in the upper reaches of this watershed (above the dam and resevoir), check out the Río Blanco, a tributary of the Pangal. Its class VI cataracts lie close to great camping in the heart of the cordillera.

From Rancagua, 87 km south of Santiago, drive east on the paved Carretera el Cobre 22 km to Coya. Continue upstream 12 km to Central Pangal, the take-out. At elevation 945 meters. Drive another 12 km up the switchbacks of Cuesta Caracoles to the put-in at Embalse Bocatoma de Pangal elevation 1405 meters. Do not venture below the Central Pangal takeout as construction debris, diversion tubes and a partially-submerged bridge that collapsed during a flood in May 1993 create deadly hazards.

Not high on the list of beautiful free flowing streambeds this 12 km class V+•VI is more of an attraction to adrenaline junkies looking to complete one of chile’s yet un-run stretches of whitewater. Runnable only when the dam releases proper flow. For the stretch below the switchbacks 1200-1500 CFS would be optimal. To attempt the radical stretch low flows would be needed which would make the lower stretch a scrapefest.

Topo map Río Cortaderal

Estero Lechoso is an intense, class V+ committing run of great beauty. Directly below the put-in lies a majestic, runnable slot canyon with a navigable cataract at the bottom. The river then meanders for a couple of hundred meters until the walls constrict again. At this point, the gradient increases dramatically as the Lechoso topples through a 3 m-high, 2 m-wide slot into a corridor.

Negotiating the bottom section requires forethought, creativity, and agile maneuvering. Be on the lookout, giving yourself plenty of time and space to inspect or retreat, if necessary. Constant “heads up” kayaking is mandatory due its major league gradient, extreme tightness, and deadly obstacles. Fallen rocks, horrible undercuts, and wall-to-wall cataracts force you to climb the walls or thrash through nasty thorns during your portages. You will be in constant view of Chile’s emerald jewel, Lago General Carrera, shimmering in the distance as you tumble southward.

On our first descent in December 1997, Gordon Banks and John Foss climbed out shortly after the slot canyon due to the lack of water, while I doggedly continued on solo. Cautious, I portaged five more times during my bump and grind descent on maybe 3 cms of water. Around 7 cms would be optimal.

From Puerto Ibañez, 164 km south of Coihaique, drive north on the switchbacks heading out of town. Continue a few more kilometers upstream, then look for a convenient place to climb into the canyon. Elevation at put-in is 400 meters. To find the take-out, drive back into Puerto Ibañez past the Carabinero station. Cross Puente Lechoso, then obtain permission to enter the estancia. Continue upstream on river left. At a T intersection, turn left and follow the base of the escarpment to the mouth of the canyon elevation 260 meters.

Expect 5 portages on this 2.5 km stretch and a flow of 150-250 CFS in the spring months. Average gradient is 300 FPM or 60 mpk

Topo map titles are Chile Chico • Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez

The class 3 upper run is 5 km in length. Take out alongside road at hydroplant (same as put in for lower) and put in 5 km upstream at a fisherman’s access point beside little lake. River can be run in spring in summer with flows of around 400 CFS.

The next morning we lazily hoisted our boats onto our backs and walked up the steep hill on river right. Scouting from the rim for the next 2 km, we came to a small drainage, lowered our kayaks with ropes, and scrambled down to the river.. We paddled downstream, playing in the class IV rapids while boofing over, ducking under, or walking around some logs. The occasional class V drop provided our adrenaline fix. Rounding the last corner, we caught sight of a couple on the bridge who applauded as we floated underneath.

From Puerto Murta, 195 km south of Coihaique, drive south on the Carretera Austral along Bahía Murta passing through Puerto Tranquilo en route. Drive over the El León, and continue to the bridge spanning the Río El Cañal. To find the put-in, hike upstream two hours on top of the rim on river right trying to avoid nasty stickers along the way. When you arrive at a drainage with a slight trickle of flowing water, lower your boat with a rope, and scramble down to the river. Elevation 310 meters.

The 2 km long class IV+•V- has average gradient of 35 mpk or 185 FPM and best run in spring or mid summer with flows of around 700 CFS.

Topo maps titled Chile Chico • Puerto Guadal

Start your run with a boof off the left side of a 7 m-high waterfall at the put-in. Continuous rapids follow in the small canyon downsteam. After the canyon opens up, the creek tumbles over a steep slope down to the confluence with the Ibañez just above the narrows. Roughly 280 cubic meters per second (10,000 CFS) rush through this tight 200 m-long mini-canyon, which is easily scouted from Puente Ibañez. On our run, we flushed through the narrow defile with unintended bow and stern squirts. Shortly downstream, I got backendered in a hole below the bridge, much to the delight of locals who gathered to watch the first kayaker they had ever seen get pummeled.

From Villa Cerro Castillo, 100 km south of Coihaique, drive north out of town a few hundred meters. Turn left and cross a unnamed bridge where you will find a camping area next to the Bosque. Hike up river right approximately 1.5 km and put in just above the 7 m-high waterfall at elevation 500 meters. To find the take-out, cross Puente Ibañez, turn left towards Las Manos, a prehistoric pictograph site, and take out below a good surfing wave at 340 meters elevation.

Sound sketchy? Well, it is. The upper portion of the canyon consists of silver-flecked schistose walls that enclose class III rapids. Shortly below the confluence of the Río Las Horquetas, the canyon constricts considerably and changes to a ochre-russet stained metamorphic rock. At this point, a log clogs the entire channel, creating a deathtrap. At low flows, you can squeeze under this log. Portage left out of the canyon using two 20 m ropes. Once on top of the rim, you’ll have to search for a route back to the river, paying close attention to the topography.

The crux of the run, Josh’s Jump, features a tight 2 m-high waterfall that explodes into a turbulent, corkscrew-shaped hydraulic pulsating off an overhung wall. In the landing zone, a short, circular pool leads into a 1.5 m-wide slot. It is a scary move that Josh Lowry, Clay Wright, and I did not see even after scouting for six hours from both rims prior to our first descent in December 1994. From a 6 m-high perch above the water on the right wall, you can see the hydraulic, but not the slot below. The climb out on the right intimidates owing to the rotten rock. If you bail out here, you have essentially abandoned the rest of the canyon, because you can’t climb back in anywhere below.

A tight, boulder-strewn drop marks the entrance to the grand finale. It is impossible to peer into its shadowy depths downstream without a thorough scout of the gorge from both sides of the river prior to your trip. Park your car at the take-out bridge, and hike 2 km upstream on river right along the rim. To see if the passage is clear, you must climb down to an ibis perch overlooking the slot. I used a log jammed into the canyon walls 4 m above the river as a marker. While scouting on the river left side of the canyon, Josh and I belayed each other by the ankles while hanging over the rim to see into the depths below! Potential new rockfall and the ever-present threat of log jams from the Nothofagus trees that drape the inner canyon walls invite caution.

Panoramic 360° vistas surround you while walking along the canyon rims. Superb salt-and pepper-granite, carved into monolithic spires by grinding rivers of ice, are a compelling sight. Undoubtedly one of the most picturesque ranges in Patagonia, these classic sin nombre spires soar skyward around Lago General Carrera. The motor tour along the south side of the lake is one of the finest in Chile. This watershed deserves wild and scenic river protection.

From Lago Bertrand, drive east on CH 265 along the south shore of Lago General Carrera to Puerto Guadal, continuing on approximately 15 km to Puente Río Los Maitenes. Alternatively drive west from Chile Chico 60 km to the same bridge. Continue 4.3 km east of the bridge, then turn south on an obscure dirt road cutting through the shrubsteppe. Creep along upstream for 6 km until the road fizzles out into a well-worn trail. From this trailhead, walk 20 minutes down to the river. To elevation 350 meters. Take out shortly downstream from Puente Río Los Maitenes on a road that descends 500 m to a flat, grassy camping area adjacent to the river elevation 225 meters.

To scout on river left, drive ~1.5 km west to a road that accesses the rim. Walk to edge of the abyss from a nearby farm house.

This mostly class III to class V- run has one V+ rapid and at least one portage. It is 10 km in length and averages 12 mpk with 400-600 CFS flow. Best run in spring and early summer. Expect to take 5-6 hours

Topo maps titled Chile Chico • San José, Puerto Sánchez

Three significant rapids below the put-in lead up to the narrowest part of the gorge. Turbulent, flat water moves swiftly though these dark shadows before reaching an expanding sky. An unrunnable set of cataracts looms shortly downstream. At flows greater than 28 cms, the one boat eddy on the right could be tough to catch. Portage up and over a talus slope of house-sized boulders. Below the cataracts, classic pool-drop rapids will fill the rest of your afternoon. Beware of a few river wide holes that will ruin your day if you blindly blunder into them.

With the grandeur of its dark, towering walls, narrow slot canyon, challenging whitewater, and snowy views of Cerro El Ventisquero (2110 m), it is easy to imagine this river protected in a wild and scenic river program. Currently, only its headwaters are protected in Reserva Nacional Lago General Carrera.

From Puerto Ibañez, 164 km south of Coihaique, take the ferry across Lago General Carrera (or do the wickedly long drive around the southern shore of the lake). After disembarking in Chile Chico, drive west along the lake approximately 20 km to Puerto Fachinal. Continue west a few more km to the take-out at Puente Avilés elevation225 meters. Hike upstream on river left for two hours on a well-worn cattle trail to reach the top of the slot canyon elevation 350 meters.

The 5 km hike provides 4.5 km of class V- boating with 3-4 portages. Best run in summer months with flows of 600-800 CFS with average gradient of 28 mpk or 150 FPM.

Topo map is titled Chile Chico and other nearby rivers include Baker, Cajon, Rio Claro (Ibañez ), Cochrane, El Cañal, Estero del Bosque, Estero Lechoso, Río Jeinemeni, Los Maitenes

To paddle this creek, you can run the Bío-Bío at high water and bivouac at the confluence with the Llanquén elevation725 meters. Begin your walk on a logging road above the meadow on river left (of the Llanquén.. Continue upstream past the first bridge. When the trail ends, ferry across the Llanquen to gain access to the river right side. Continue on for a couple of hundred meters until you reach a point where you can hike up on top of a terrace and to gain access to a road. Walk upstream another kilometer until you reach Puente Llanquen elevation 725 meters.

The Llanquén is accessible by vehicle from Lonquimay if you choose to drive down the Bío-Bío. Drive 28 km downstream from the normal Bío-Bío put-in at Balsadero Caracoles to the Llanquén, crossing Puente Paz en route. At the bridge you still need to walk your boat upstream.

This Class IV+•V- stretch of river is 3 km long with average gradient of 38 mpk or 200 FPM. Best run in the spring with flows of 250 to 400 CFS.

It can be seen on topo map titled Lolco. A private gate closes the road from the west making the other nearby runs (also tributaries of the Bio-Bio) such as the Ralco, Lomin, Queupe and Chalquilvin a full days journey by car. You may see a road to Ralco on your map but unless you have acces to the key and a good 4 wheel drive vehicle you will not thru. Access to the Llanquén is achieved thru Curracautin then Lonquimay making this a very isolated run that few kayakers have the opportunity to enjoy.

Due to an upstream dam in Argentina the river has year round water. Winter months are cold and the river is high but it is still boat-able. Prime boating season is late November to mid April.

Notable rapids on this stretch include “Asleep at the wheel”, “Terminator”, “Kyber pass” and Himalayas.

Terminator is a monstrous 1/2 km rapid that deserves a good scout. Traditional scout is on river left but easier portage is on the right. An exciting “chicken line” can be found close to shore on river left for the majority of boaters who can not conceive of running down through the massive hole-infested center of Terminator.

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Eva and Alex in the exciting sneak of terminator foto by John Cornwell

The takeout is the swinging Paserela bridge 8 km up from Puente Futaleufu. This is also the put-in for Bridge to bridge section.

The put-in for the Terminator section is 7 km upriver at the confluence with Rio Azul. There are some private land issues near the confluence so best to put in on the Rio Azul and boat 3 km down to the Futa. to reach put in for Azul turn left 1/2 km before the bridge while driving towards town of Futa and proceed up a road paralleled by a fence made of huge vertical Coigue logs. Drive until you reach the swinging bridge over the Azul and find your way to the river..

View of the ash-covered Tres Monjas as seen from the river when Chaiten volcano blew for the second time in Feb 2009

Recent explosions of Chaiten volcano in 2009 have somewhat darkened the waters of both the Azul and the Futa but as each day passes the quantity of ash sediment in the water diminishes.

Nearby rivers include the Azul, Espolon, Tigre, and Michinmahuida

The Río Laja rips through a geologic wonderland upstream from Salto del Laja, a popular roadside attraction off the Pan-American Highway. Draining Laguna de la Laja, this scintillating gem features kick-ass, heart-thumping action from start to finish. The first 200 m are the toughest and should be scouted. Only run the Laja if you have a bombproof roll. In fact, don’t even think about tippng over. Regardless of the Laja’s significance (’smooth rock’), its razor-sharp basalt will shred you and your equipment if you find yourself upside down. Walking along the shore is impossible due to the vegetation and channels of swift water.

John Foss on the Laja circa 1992

Sierra Velluda (3585 m) and Volcán Antuco (2979 m) (Mapuche for ’sun’ and ‘water’) grace the southern horizon. In 1873, viscious lava flows from an eruption on Antuco oozed over the valley floor, plugged the river, and caused the water level in Laguna de la Laja to rise 20 m. Cold, clear, groundwater percolates through this porous basalt, bursting out of the canyon walls at Salto Las Chilcas, the nacimiento, or birthplace of the river.
From Los Angeles, 518 km south of Santiago, drive east towards the town of Antuco and Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja. Oncoming cars used to challenge us in a game of “chicken”, waiting until the last moment to swerve off the only paved lane into billowy clouds of dust. That thrill is gone now that both lanes are paved to Antuco. After entering the park, drive 4 km up the hill to an obscure photo-op sign and an eroded concrete foundation. Turn left and continue 300 m to the trailhead. Hike down 20 minutes towards the gushing cascade of Salto Las Chilcas, and the switchbacks that lead to the water’s edge. Take out in the meadow next to the ENDESA reservoir.
Below the reservoir, the river looks steep, but far from deep. In fact, it’s as dry as a sun-bleached bone in the summer. Why doesn’t ENDESA maintain a minimum year-round stream flow for fisheries and recreation?

Topo of map of region is titled Laguna de Laja G-021

Nearby Rivers include the Nuble, Queuco andCautin. forgot about running the Duqueco as I have heard that the whitewater section has been dammed.