Packing it in

For years this river was overlooked because it has no road access and people really had no idea that it had water. It´s natural course would be to enter the Laja Valley but Endesa diverted every drop into canals prior to the confluence with the Laja thus it appears to not even exist. In fact the Polcura provides 25 km of stomping whitewater in a pristine, Roadless environment.

Getting on and off the river presents its own challenge. To reach the river you need horses or need to be willing to walk 25 km with your gear up and over a pretty big pass. Here is my suggestion and what Paul Van Cura and I did on our Nov 25, 2011 first descent.

Nightime view of the river from 100 meters above

Drive East from Chillan to village of Recinto then just before reaching Los Lleuques turn right following sign to Duguillin. In 8 km you reach Puente Antacalco. Just prior to the bridge go left and follow road upriver to an often locked chain at Fundo Los Cipresses. This is private land and you will likely need to pay 2,000 pesos to pass your vehicle. Proceed 150 meters and then follow fork in road to left through a gate. Follow this brutal 4 wheel drive only road another 7 km until it ends at El Trumao swinging bridge. This is also the put in for the Upper Diguillin River. From this point you need horses which can be arranged from Miguel Antonio Ocares miguelocares29@gmail.com phone 76219797. Miguel was a park ranger in the Ñuble for 10 years and knows the park intimately. He will leave Los Lleuques 2.5 hours earlier in day so that the horses are there waiting when you arrive. I would highly suggest one mule for each pair of empty kayaks then each person rides their own horse with their gear in a backpack (which Miguel can bring back when he returns).

Map of Reserva Ñuble

It is a 25 km or 5 hour horse trek up and over pass into Blanquillo Valley eventually arriving at Polcura River in the Sector El Candado on other side of National Park..

En route the trail passes by the 40 meter high (estimated) Salto Blanquillo on the Blanquillo tributary. The Blanquillo enters the Polcura 2 km below the put in.

Salto Blanquillo

Fishing is amazing at this point so plan to camp and eat fish. Miguel will camp with you and leave the next day for his return trip. At this point, anything you do not need or can not carry in your boat (backpack, boots, etc) give to Miguel and he will take back.

At the put in we found an ideal flow of about 800 CFS which grew to an estimated 2000 CFS by end of trip. The river started off with 2 km of class 4-4+ whitewater until its confluence with the Rio Blanquillo. From this point there were 3 km of class 2-3 water through incredible basalt plugs, followed by an additional 3 km stretch having intermittent class 5 rapids and some nice beaches for camping. Next up are 4 km of some of the most pumping class 5+ water in Chile. Everything is portagable and with good flows sneak chutes open up. Upon reaching the Estero Attravesado (entering on river right) the river backs off to class 4 then quickly down to class 3 for final 15 km to takeout. An old abandoned logging road follows this final section on river right. Takeout is at the Endesa bridge upstream of where river goes into a canal.

Put in rapid

It took us 12 hours on day one to get to Estero Attravesado then another 2 hours next day to reach the bridge. I would strongly suggest camping before the wild stretch and starting into this section fresh on day 2. Everything is runnable but is so continuous that things could easily get out of hand. We had a boat get pinned.

Pinned boat

Class 5 action on Polcura

Take out situation is also tricky because you are 13 km up from an ENDESA gate. Private vehicles are not allowed in without permission so plan this part carefully or expect a 13 km walk out (as the river below is dewatered). We used a shuttle driver that grew up in the Endesa community and knew how to get permission to get in. He lives near Termas de Chillan in Las Trancas and his name is Maxiliano Sandoval 85604046 or 89599824. Max rode with his to put-in then return with our vehicle to his home. He then met us at takeout at prearranged time 2 days later. It is a 6 hour (250km) shuttle drive so plan this part out carefully as well as put in logistics.

Trashed shuttle ride near takeout

The rewards of this trip and the efforts put forth to make it happen are well worth it. Put in elevation is 1075 meters (high for Chile) and takeout is 800 meter. The river drops 275 meters in 25 km. At first glance the average gradient of 11 m/km would appear to be pretty mellow but in reality the gradient is concentrated in multiple sections averaging over 100 FPM and with 1500-2000 CFS you have some boisterous sections..

Typical class 5 action on Polcura

Note: Upon crossing the Diguillin River at beginning of hose trek to put-in you will be entering the National Park and are required to pay an entrance fee of 2200 pesos per person.

The topo map for the bulk of the river is called Puntilla Chillan G-010. I would highly suggest having a copy. We lost a kayak in a sieve and had to hike a person out. Having the map allowed us to figure the best way of finding a trail. Due to higher than normal altitude for Chilean Rivers, The Polcura drainage has cold nights and ultra cold water so come prepared.

Scan image of portion of G-010 topo map

GPS coordinates Put-in 37.076115°, 71.394636°
GPS coordinates at take out 37.269223°, 71.459928°

Other nearby rivers include Rio Chillan, Diguillin, Laja, Rucue, and Renegado

The put-in is at the Reserva Nacional de Los Huemules del Ñiblinto ranger station in the Comuna de Coihueco in the country´s 8th region. Huemules are en endangered elk-like animal and this park was formed in 1978 to protect one of their last remaining habitats.

Jake Greenbaum first descent of Rio Ñiblinto

The 250 FPM (50 m/km) average gradient makes for an exciting, albeit short, 2 km run. Native forests, good camping and lack of human beings are added bonuses which more than offset the relatively difficult access.

Rio Ñiblinto

It can be difficult to get to the river because of the potential for not only locked gates but for a myriad of criss crossing logging roads. These directions are pretty accurate and can help guide you to the river but keep in mind the final descent to river might be impassable after rains and good clearance and 4 wheel drive are a must.

From Chillan take paved road 27 km east to Coihueco then continue North East out of town to town of Ñiblinto. Here you will cross a bridge over the river and can view the level. If the flow is what is shown below or more you should be okay.

View from bridge crossing 25 km downstream-this is a good level for what lies upstream

Turn right on the north side of the bridge towards Minas Del Prado and zero out the odometer. It is 12.1 KM to the former mining town now forestry town of Minas del Prado. Just before entering town veer onto the main gravel road that circles around the town and at 13.7 km you might encounter a locked gate forest. We did and were able to drive around the right side of the gate. At KM 14 you come to a T intersection and should go right. At KM 16.5 follow fork left towards Hijuela (not campamento). At 18.5 KM you encounter a sign indicating entrance to the corridor Biologico. At KM 23.8 the road enters a distinct eucalyptus forest (everything else is pine). Upon exiting this forest at KM 25.5 there is an obvious, very large Coigue tree on the right. Continue 50 meters and go right onto a dirt road that descends very sharply to the river at KM 30. At KM 30.2 there is an abandoned house then some very good camping spots which we used for takeout. Probably best to leave the car somewhere around the park gate at KM 30.9 and start hiking to the park entrance which is another 2 KM upstream.

This sketch bridge is one of the reasons it is best to carry your boat the final 1.5 KM to put in
Put in at the upper end of the camping sites where a short trail leads one to the river at elevation 650 meters and takeout 2 km downstream at 550 meters.

Ñiblinto sign at ranger station

An alternative is to keep boating another 13 KM to elevation 350 meter (15 m/km or 75 FPM average) where another road accesses the river

GPS coordinates of takeout are 36.717969° latitude and 71.584379° longitude
Topo map of area is helpful and available from IGM and titled San Fabian de Alico F102

Other nearby Rivers include Catio, Ñuble, Chillan, Renegado, Duiguillin

Note: The park does not normally open until November 1 which in a normal year will towards the end of runnable flow. On November 2, as we were hiking up, we met the park ranger Juan Sepulveda coming down on a motorcycle. In the months prior to November one might encounter additional locked gates.

Short video clip of typical Ñiblinto rapid

To arrive from Chillan take the paved road northeast to Coihueco then follow the road to Ñiblinto crossing the Cato bridge en route. In the town of Bustamante head east up the dirt road alongside the Rio Cato. Along the way there are several nice campsites and swim holes. After 17 KM you come to a bridge over a tight canyon on the the river.This is the takeout From here you have to jump a gate, shoulder your boat, and head upriver. River left is more flat so a better choice but an old logging road on river right is also an option.

Hiking in to the Cato

Put in at 520 meters elevation and takeout at 390…Run is 5.5 km in length and drops an average of 24 m/km or 120 FPM. On our November 1st run we had a scratchy flow of 250 CFS..Optimal flow would be 500 CFS or more and those levels would be found in winter months to mid October. In the summer months the river is almost dry.

Topo map of Cato River<

youtube video just under 2 minutes..Shot just before sunset

The GPS coordinates of the takeout bridge are 36.630467° south latitude and

71.635102° longitude. topo map from IGM is titled San Fabian de Alico F-102

A cool little detail is that the bridges over the Cato and the Ñiblinto on the Coihueco-Bustamante road are only 250 meters apart so that the water levels of both can be checked almost simultaneously.

Other nearby rivers include Ñuble, Las Truchas, Ñiblinto, Chillan and Renegado

To arrive at the river follow the paved road east out of Chillan towards the Termas de Chillan. Pass through town of Pinto and at KM post 36 go right on gravel road following sign to Los Pellines

From this turn off it is 9 KM to a nice camp along the river, which can also serve as one of many put-ins or take outs for the lower run. At 12.3KM you come to Puente Mañiguales which is probably the best put in for lower part of river. Continuing upstream one reaches Fundo Los Ciegos at KM 14.2. Park here and walk 100 meters to see the as of yet, still un-run, 35 meter Salto Pellines.

Salto De Pellines

Upstream at KM 15.2 is a gate in front of a bridge over the river. Once across the river Fundo Los Pellines is to the left and Fundo El Plan to the right (upstream). The gate is likely to be locked so be prepared to walk from this point. If you are lucky and gate is open cross the bridge and continue following road upstream for another 4 KM (or more if one is willing to keep walking) To find the bridge with Google Earth use GPS coordinates 36.826707° South Latitude and 71.615750° Longitude

Jake Greenbaum headcam shot Rio Chillan

This 5 KM upper stretch is likely to have 300 CFS in early spring (Sept-October) and be too small from November to July. Average gradient is roughly 30 m/km or 150 FPM. It is highly recommended to scout the falls before running the river. A very enticing 100 meter long slot canyon leads to the lip of the falls.. If you find your way into the slot canyon you will be doing a first D of the falls assuming you make it past the decapitation flake at the lip.

Typical action Rio Chillan

The falls are a logical takeout with easy access to the road 100 meters away. Portaging the falls is possible (best of river right) but looks like a real bitch over loose talus. A more wide open river is available below the falls and can be run for an additional 13 km to a downstream bridge at 450 meters elevation.

Short video clip of river by Jake Greenbaum

The IGM Topo map is titled Recinto F-111

Other nearby rivers include Diguillin, Renegado, Ñiblinto, Cato and Ñuble

Puente Ñirementum

This walk in creek is only runnable in winter or early spring in years with good snowpack or after periods of prolonged rainfall. (September/October) In the shadow of Volcan Callaqui, the principal source of this river is the Cordon Ñirementum (pronounced Nyreh-men-tum) and the volcano itself at 3164 meters.

To reach the put in take the Los Angeles exit off ruta 5 then head east up the Bio Bio drainage thru Santa Barbara and on the Ralco. In Ralco follow the gravel road north towards Trapa Trapa. After 35.4 km you come to Puente Ñirementum at lattidtude 37.715 and longitude 71.406 and elevation 700 meters.. The put-in is 5 km upstream where a foot bridge crosses the river. Start hiking at the caribinero station on river left side of bridge.

Hike is 2 hours and put in elevation is 848 meters. The 5 KM stretch averages 30 m/km of 150 FPM. Volume is around 300 CFS. The river is very continuous but with no big drops. The main danger are trees growing in the river.

Hike in view of river

Typical action Ñirementum

After the river continue up the Queuco 11 km to the Termas de Nitrao which are part of the Trapa Trapa community and worth a soak for $ 1000 pesos. We had lunch with local Cacique or headman 1 km upstream from the termas before heading back downstream.

Rodrigo and Kurt waiting for lunch

Mapuche woman arriving on horse to Temas De Nitrao

A topo map is useful for the area but not necessary. The 1:50,000 map is titled Queuco G-032.. Nearby rivers include Pangue, Duequeco, Quillaleo, and Laja but the best option is the Upper Queuco starting at swinging bridge 1 KM above Termas de Nitrao and taking out 9.4 km below the Malla Malla Canyon. This class 4* section can be done as a short day stretch or combined into a multi-day with middle and Lower Queuco for over 60 km of whitewater.

Rio Quillaleo

The Quillaleo has its headwaters in the Cordillera Tricauco with the most outstanding peak being the snowcapped behemoth Cerro Macizo 2224 meters above sea level.

For 20 years I had driven over the Huequecura on the way up the Bio Bio and always wondered what was upstream. Low water levels is what kept me from exploring but this year with a high snow pack and early season run off the river valley beckoned for some exploration. Rodrigo Tuschner had just returned from a season in Italy and joined me for some exploration. The lower elevation snowpack makes this river runnable in only the winter months of July to early spring. Most likely the river is not runnable after end of October, unless after a period of very sustained rainfall..

Rodrigo Tuschner at put-in

The logistics are easy. From the Los Angeles exit on Ruta 5 follow the paved road to Santa Barbara. From Santa Barbara continue west 15 KM towards Ralco. Turn left at the sign for El Huachi and follow the gravel road 15 km into El Huachi then another 4 km to the river and Puente Las Balsas. One km upstream is a low head dam with a class 4-5 rapid below it. Take out here or at another bridge 450 meters upstream. The elevation is 431 meters above sea level and GPS coordinates 37.652 south latitude and 71.713 degrees longitude. Beside the bridge is a house owned by Don Segundo Viviano Araya who provided us with local information and let us leave our bicycle for shuttle.

Takeout rapid below the damm

To reach the put-in continue driving upstream 3.7 KM and you will come to a metal gate Ruca Trayen. If the river gate is locked you have to park and continue walking upstream. From this point onwards you are in land belonging to the indigenous Mapuche community of Ayan Mapu so, although not populated, be respectful. On our descent we walked another 3 km upstream from the locked gate and put-in 500 meters above an abandoned campground at elevation 578 meters.

Collecting eggs with Don Segundo

I would estimate the flow at the put –in on our October 5, 2011 descent of 250 CFS which reached 400 CFS by takeout. The class 3 run drops 138 meters in 6.7 km for average gradient of 20 m/km or 100 FPM. There are no portages and the river is raft able if the level is strong.

Note: It is possible to continue walking or driving upstream another 7 km to the Estero Monton de Trigo at elevation 875 meters. The river tightens up in this section and drops an average of 45 m/km so should have class 4 and maybe some class 5 rapids at average of 225 FPM.

It is also possible to continue downstream from takeout another 14.6 km down the Huequecura to the Bio bio confluence at 283 meters. The confluence, however, is just upstream of the newest dam being built on the Bio Bio so as the dam is completed and starts to fill the lower reaches of the river (probably 5 km or more) will become a lake. We heard there are some small waterfalls on Upper Huequecura tributary but we did not have time to explore.

It is nice to have a 1:50,000-topo map of the region, which is G-031, titled Cordillera Tricauco.

Other nearby rivers include the Duequeco, Queuco, Ñirementum, Pangue and Laja.

This creek run flows of the Southern flank of Volcan Callaqui (3164 meters) and is easily reached from ruta 5 and the city of Los Angeles. Follow paved highway Q-61-R 42 km to Santa Barbara then continue east another 52 km to town or Ralco. From here it is 2.7 KM further east to the takeout bridge on Rio Pangue. Turn left and follow gravel road up to the put-in. 7.7 KM upstream you reach a serious set of cataracts which we chose not to run. Below this are several class 5 rapids followed by non stop class 4 to take out bridge. Carefully scout and/or portage the first two rapids as they feed into undercut walls.

The river is best run in maximum spring and early summer flows so September to end of November. Ideal flows are 10 to 25 cubic meters per second (300 to 750 CFS). The water is ice cold and crystal clear. On sunny days you look over your shoulder while boating and have great views of Callaqui Volcano. Due to non stop action the run can be completed in just over an hour.

Put–in elevation is 750 meters and takeout at bridge is 450 meters. Average gradient is 39 meters per kilometer or just under 200 FPM.

If you want to see river on 1:50,000 topo the map is called Bio Bio 042

Other nearby rivers include the Queuco, Lomin, Ralco, Chavalquin and Duqueco.

The trip involves an entire day of hiking up to the put in with horses, a full day of paddling down the creek and another full day of paddling out on the Ñuble River (unless a car is left at Los Sauces/Ñuble confluence). There are only a few big rapids, but a day on the Truchas is full of non-stop boulder garden style rapids that will keep you on your toes. I would call this a class 4-5 run, with class 5 consequences due to its remote nature.  One of the best parts, is that besides hiring someone to get your boats to the put in, your shuttle involves just a bus ride from the town of San Fabian and then you more or less paddle right back to same town.
Pre-River Logistics:  Sounds complicated but it’s easier than it seems…
Arranging the cowboy (huaso) to carry your boats with horses- Contact Pablo Jimenez of Extremo Sur Expediciones at extremosurexpediciones@gmail.com, he is the man who knows all the details of getting the horses set up. His family also has a nice hosteria which is a great spot to base from in San Fabian. The cost for the horses was 30,000 pesos per person.

Most likely, the huaso will want to meet you at a beach beside Los Sauces river to start the hike. What this means is that the night before you meet him, you need to catch a bus leaving San Fabian at 5:30pm which will take you up river (or if you have a car drive to Los Sauces) . If on bus tell the driver you want to be dropped off at Los Sauces (this will be about an hour to an hour and a half bus ride from San Fabian). You’ll be dropped by a pedestrian bridge that cross Los Sauces River. Put on and paddle about 10 minutes downstream until you reach a nice beach on your left. You’ll know you’re at the beach because you will have just run a very low volume, junky class 3 rapid which is out of character with rest of river. Camp at the beach and be ready for the huaso to arrive there in the morning. This beach is about 1 KM upstream of the confluence of the Los Sauces River with Ñuble River and elevation approximately 662 meters elevation.

Help load your boats on horses and start hiking. The first part of the hike is fairly flat, you’ll be walking up the Upper Ñuble Valley for 8 KM. You will cross a couple small creeks and eventually you will get to the first significant crossing. This is Las Truchas.  On our trip we were worried about the water being too low and we were told that if during these crossings (you actually have to cross it twice because it goes around an island at this point) you’re knee deep in water and your legs are burning from the cold at the end then the water level was good. But if you were walking ankle deep in water the whole time it was too low. For us, it was somewhere in between and I’d say our level was on the low side of medium.

Our first crossing of the Truchas

After these crossings you will get to the small town of El Roble elevation 730 meters. The huaso should wait for you there. This is where you make the only turn of the trip, and have to go through a gate off to the left just after the town. The reason he waits there is to insure that you make the correct turn. After this point he will probably take off with the horses and leave you behind. We made an arrangement with him to leave a white sack on the trail when we got to the spot where we needed to leave the trail and head down to the put-in on the river river. The hike from El Roble to the put in is much more rugged then up to this point. During this section you will cross two big tributaries. the first, or lower, is called Estero del Leon and the second or upper is called Estero de Chureo. After you reach the second tributary you are probably one hour walk to the put-in). The hike took us a full 8 hours.  Plan to camp at put-in and begin early the next morning.

The second tributary coming in

The GPS coordinates of put-in are

1100 meters altitude

Latitude:-36.74699 *which equals 36 degrees 44 minutes 45 seconds

Longitude:-71.29358 * which equals 7 degrees 11 minutes 35 seconds

The put in is about 200 meters below the confluence with the Estero de Los Rabones. It is 12 KM of boating from put in back to Ñuble confluence at El Roble. The average drop in this section is 31 m/km or 155 FPM.

The next 8 KM down the Ñuble to the confluence with Rio Sauces has average gradient of 8.5 m/km or 42.5 FPM which does not sound like much but due to much higher volume there are some surprisingly big rapids.

The River:
The day on the Truchas took us all day, and involved lots of scouting. Its completely do-able, but don’t underestimate the amount of time it will take you to get down. We probably scouted about 20 rapids and did only one portage. Everything is more or less scoutable.

You’ll want to check out the rapids if you can’t see them from your boat as at least at our level there were some manky spots were you wouldn’t want to end up. The rapid we portaged is definitely runnable, but did not seem worth the risk. Portage on a trail on the left. 

One rapid of note is a 20 foot waterfall that at lower flows has a rock in the center of the landing (turns out my friend who had been here at higher water did not know the rock even existed and they boofed right off the center). At our level boofing the center was not an option. Be aware of this hazard either way. I piton the rock and got lucky I didn’t break my ankles.

Gareth boofing the waterfall rapid

Gareth at the bottom of sweet boof right after portage

Not long after you pass the second significant tributary you will arrive at the confluence of the Ñuble where the elevation is approximately 740 meters.. At this point where you camp is up to you. In order to shorten our third and final day, we paddled one more hour downstream (which does include a couple significant rapids on the Ñuble) until the confluence with Los Sauces (elevation at this point is 662 meters). We ended up camping at an awesome spot on the right just after the confluence.

Enjoying-the-final-night

The final day involves paddling all the way down the Nuble. This is probably around 20km long and can take anywhere from 4-8 hours depending on where you chose to camp the night before and how fast you move downstream. Take out when you reach a beach on your right just before a vehicle ferry / cable. From here we just jogged back to San Fabian (about a mile) to get someone to come pick us up with our boats.

If you are lucky enough to get topo maps of the area the one that shows Upper Ñuble and lower Truchas is called Lara 103, then you need map title Rio Ñuble 113, and the Upper Truchas is found on map titled “Pichirincon”  104

For additional info on author visit blog (http://theliquidlifestyle.blogspot.com/2010/11/nublefest-2010.html)

To paddle this creek, you can run the Bío-Bío at high water and bivouac at the confluence with the Llanquén elevation725 meters. Begin your walk on a logging road above the meadow on river left (of the Llanquén.. Continue upstream past the first bridge. When the trail ends, ferry across the Llanquen to gain access to the river right side. Continue on for a couple of hundred meters until you reach a point where you can hike up on top of a terrace and to gain access to a road. Walk upstream another kilometer until you reach Puente Llanquen elevation 725 meters.

The Llanquén is accessible by vehicle from Lonquimay if you choose to drive down the Bío-Bío. Drive 28 km downstream from the normal Bío-Bío put-in at Balsadero Caracoles to the Llanquén, crossing Puente Paz en route. At the bridge you still need to walk your boat upstream.

This Class IV+•V- stretch of river is 3 km long with average gradient of 38 mpk or 200 FPM. Best run in the spring with flows of 250 to 400 CFS.

It can be seen on topo map titled Lolco. A private gate closes the road from the west making the other nearby runs (also tributaries of the Bio-Bio) such as the Ralco, Lomin, Queupe and Chalquilvin a full days journey by car. You may see a road to Ralco on your map but unless you have acces to the key and a good 4 wheel drive vehicle you will not thru. Access to the Llanquén is achieved thru Curracautin then Lonquimay making this a very isolated run that few kayakers have the opportunity to enjoy.

Kenny Craig on the Queuco

From Los Angeles, 517 km south of Santiago, drive 3 km south on the Pan American Highway and turn east towards Santa Barbara. After passing through Santa Barbara, continue another 42 km east to Ralco. Inquire in town for a shuttle driver. From “downtown” Ralco, turn  east toward Paso de Pucón Mahuida, just past the Carabinero station. When the road returns to river level approximately 20 km upstream, put in at unnamed ferry crossing elevation 600 meters. Take out at Puente Queuco elevation 345 meters, just upstream from the confluence with the Bío-Bío. there is good camping on river left just upstream of the bridge.

Entering the Queuco on tributary Rio Otue

This class 3+, class 4 run averages 62 FPM and is best run in spring months Sept-Nov with flows up to 4000 CFS. December flows usually fall below 1500 CFS and January flows become low enough to look for water elsewhere.

Nathan Sullivan first ran this in early December of 2004 and I believe it has not yet been repeated. Nate describes the run as mostly class 3-4 with one distinct class 5 stretch that includes an S turn rapid into a 6 meter falls. On their run the water was on low side so best to get there in early to mid spring runoff (October-November). I went to check out the river in January 2009 and it was too low.

Rio Malleco beginning its westward journey

To get to river there are two options. the first is to come in from Ruta 5 at the Inspector Fernandez exit which is a few km north of town of Victoria and about 60 km from the Northside of Temcuo. From here take the gravel road R-71 to the western park entrance approximately 50 KM to the east. Pass the lake (Laguna Malleco) and turn left to reach the CONAF park entrance. Ask for permission to drive your vehicle past the camping area a few hundred additional meters around the north side of the lake. Yo can then walk with your boat on the well maintained 1.8 KM “El Salto” trail or do what I did and hop in your boat and paddle accross the lake to the top of the falls then hike boat down to river on a good fisherman’s trail.

The other way to reach the river is from the Curacautin. From Curacautin follow the gravel road 30 KM to the Termas de Tolhauca then another 8 km to Laguna Malleco.

The takeout is a bit tricky to find. Use the link to view map below and find where vertical intersection of line 42 with horizontal line intersection between 69 and 70. Here a logging road goes down and crosses a bridge over the river. This takeout at 575 meters is about 13 km from the base of the falls which are at 850 meters making the average gradient 21 m/km or 105 FPM.

Follow road from lake back towards Ruta 5 about 16 km to small village of San Gregorio. Turn right and go north 4 km and go straight on small road where there is a major bend to the left. Go about 500 meters then turn left follow this road about 5 km until you come to the river. On the way you will pass a small creek and then have switchback descent down to river. Best to ask locals for accurate directions.

Link for Acrobat Map of Malleco

Other nearby rivers include the Cautin, Truful Truful, Laja and remaining undammed tributaires of the Bio Bio

While in the area it is worth visiting the Tolhuaca National park which does not see much traffic and has some excellent hiking trails. Nearby Tolhuaca hot springs are pricey but strategically located to combine with this river trip. Organized camping is available on the north side of Laguna Malleco. Inquire at CONAF office for pricing.

Nestled into a canyon at the base of the Chillan Volcano (3212 meters), the Diguillín receives it’s water from the peaks located in Reserva Nacional Nuble which straddles the Argentinian border.

Mariann Saether in one of the upper drops Foto by Eva Luna

Volume is small with mid November flows estimated at 250 to 400 CFS. The river is usually too low to run by December. The run contains mostly class 3-4 rapids but class 5 options await those willing to put-in on the upstream canyon.

Scouting for a put-in foto by Eva Luna
To reach the river exit Ruta 5 Pan American highway in Chillan and follow well marked signs towards Termas De Chillan on paved road N-55. En Los Lleques turn off onto a gravel road that leads down to the river.

Leave your car where you want to take out and go upstream as far as you choose or as far as you are able to go. A locked gate may present a problem, however, if you say you are going upstream to visit the Reserva Nuble the gatekeeper will let you pass for 2000 peso entrance fee. A normal run is around 6 KM long.

Other nearby rivers are Longaví, Achibueno, and Laja. Other local attractions are the Termas de Chillan, the waterfall of Estero Renegado which enters river just below Los Lleuques, and the protected biosphers of Reserva Nacional Nuble and Santuario Los Huemeles de Niblinto. If you hit the run in early spring (September/early October) you can boat in the morning, ski/snowboard in the afternoon and soak in hot springs in the evening with fine dining and lodging in nearby Las Trancas.

For more information on the area visit website http://www.patagonias.net/Ciudades/LasTrancas.htm

The crux rapid on the river Nuble

A typical run on the Ñuble could be divided into an upper, a middle, and a lower section. An upper Ñuble run would be 14 km section of class 3 and 4 with long stretches of flatwater taking about an average of 4 hours. A middle Ñuble section would be another 15.3 km with more class 3 and 4 sections interspersed with more flatwater. A lower principally class 3 “town run” is roughly 9 km long.

Roger Pyle spring time fun at Caracol rapid

A typical upper Ñuble run would actually start on the colder and creekier Rio de Los Sauces. To reach this put in follow the road from San Fabian along the river Ñuble until it comes to Los Sauces. Continue upstream several km then put in on Los Sauces (elevation 715 meters) and boat a few km into the Ñuble.

river de los sauces – end of the road – starting point for the Ñuble

The takeout of upper stretch is at El Caracol which is 18.9 km upstream of San Fabian at elevation 600 meters. The average gradient in this stretch is 8.2 mpk or 42 FPM. Best run in peak spring runoff with flows of 10,000 CFS but also runnable without the push in the summer months with flows under 1000 CFS.

Ben May playboating below the Crux rapid of the Upper

The middle stretch is from Caracol 18.9 KM upstream from San Fabian to the takeout at Camping San Ignacio 3.6 km upstream of San Fabian at elevation 435 meters. This stretch has more continual whitewater than the Upper with plenty of challenging rapids such as one named “rapid without a line”. The average gradient in this stretch is 11 mpk or 55 FPM and best run a high water spring flows.

Nice day on the Ñuble

The takeout for the lower stretch is about 5 km below town where an obvious turnoff reaches the river. The put in is any access point upstream with a good option being camping San Ignacio 3.6 km upstream of town making for a 8.6 km, fun 2 hour run.

To get to the Ñuble one takes I-5 or the panamerican highway north of Chillan for 30 km until the town of San Carlos. From San Carlos keep going straight through San Fabian then pick your section.

A good place to stay and or eat in San Fabian is Brisas del Malalcura on main street at 550 Avenida Andes phone (42) 419014 or e-mail pablo.j.extremo@gmail.com

Unfortunately, this remote and sleepy town of San Fabian and the river Ñuble is under the threat of another Hydro Electric diversion project. We met with CGE ( Chile Gas and Electric) when we were paddling and they pointed out that the proposed diversion was to begin after the first 15km so theoretically the river and tourism would not be destroyed. The town of San Fabian seems opposed to the idea of another hydroelectric project in Chile. Note: this is not always the case. Often promises of short term employment get people interested in a damn project